The Luberon in Provence holds a special place in our hearts, as we had our own holiday home there for over a decade. Famous for its lavender fields that paint the landscape in shades of purple and its ancient hilltop villages with terracotta rooftops, the Luberon is one of the most beautiful areas of France. And Autumn is a great time to visit. The crowds have gone, many restaurants and shops are still open and the sun is normally still out.
Here are some of our favourite villages to visit. You can base yourself in one of the villages and explore the rest with short, scenic drives. Or chose to stay in a couple of places for a change of scene.
For more detail and weblink on places to stay, dine and drink check our full website page here.
Saignon: small, quiet and more off the beaten track
Saignon is the village that holds our hearts most dearly, as it’s where we owned our house for ten years. Nestled high on a hill, it’s a small but charming village that feels untouched by time. The fountain in the main square, shaded by ancient plane trees, is the heart of Saignon. The village is intimate, so a few hours here is all you need to wander its winding streets, check out the few boutique and then sit down for a coffee, glass of rosé or a cold beer.
Bonnieux: small but beautiful hilltop village
Bonnieux is a picture-perfect village that rises from the valley floor, offering panoramic views of the Luberon’s rolling landscape. It’s one of the larger villages in the region and provides a good blend of history and modern luxury, making it an ideal place to explore or stay. Here you will find a lovely place to stay called Capelongue which is like a little Provençal hamlet all of its own. There are extensive gardens with lavender fields, olive groves and a large pool that overlooks the valley. There are several restaurants on-site, including both fine dining and more relaxed options.
Gordes: famous and spectacular
Image: https://airelles.com/en/destination/gordes-hotel
Gordes is often cited as one of the most beautiful hilltop villages in the Luberon, and it’s easy to see why. Its stone houses cascade down the hillside, crowned by a stunning chateau that dominates the skyline. The village has a timeless beauty that attracts artists, photographers and visitors from all over the world. In the main square, a beautiful fountain serves as a gathering point, surrounded by charming shops and cafés. We have long admired Airelles Gordes and hope to stay there one day! This luxury hotel sits like a crown jewel on the edge of the village, offering unparalleled views of the valley below.
Roussillon: the red village
Roussillon is instantly recognizable by its dramatic red ochre cliffs and buildings. The walk up to the top of the village takes you up a winding street with galleries, shops and boutiques. Many of these are selling touristy stuff but others do have a nice offering of food and wine. Up at the top of the village, is a square which is a good spot to sit and have a coffee and maybe a light bite.
Lourmarin: busy and buzzy
Lourmarin gained international fame thanks to Peter Mayle’s beloved book A Year in Provence and it continues to enchant visitors. The village is lively, with café terraces spilling into little squares, honey-coloured stone houses, independent shops and the château sitting just beyond the centre. It also has some lovely galleries to visit where we have bought artwork to remind us of our trips (see the full webpage for details here).
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s specificity is twofold. First, there are the canals that wind through the village. Second, it is the home of one of France’s most famous antique markets, held every Sunday. The sheer variety on offer is astonishing: delicate 18th-century crystal chandeliers, gilded mirrors, rustic Provençal furniture, rare books and vintage textiles all jostle for attention. Beyond the market, the narrow lanes are lined with antique shops that brim with curiosities year-round, where you can lose yourself exploring. After a morning of treasure hunting, you can settle in at one of the cafés that overlook the canals.
Things to know
Getting there
The easiest way to reach the Luberon is to fly into Marseille Provence Airport and hire a car, which also gives you the freedom to explore the villages once you arrive. From the airport, allow around one hour to Lourmarin and roughly an hour to Gordes, depending on traffic; for a relaxed arrival, we’d allow around 1¼ hours door to door.
Visiting the villages
Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux and Saignon are all strung along the northern side of the Luberon, just off the D900, making them easy to combine on a trip. Lourmarin sits on the southern side of the Combe de Lourmarin, the narrow pass cutting through the Luberon, so it’s slightly separate from the other villages mentioned.
Market days
Some key village markets to explore during your stay: Apt: Saturday; Gordes: Tuesday; Lourmarin: Friday; Bonnieux: Friday; Roussillon: Thursday. Always check before heading off to confirm these days are still up-to-date.
Why go?
A trip to the Luberon is an immersion into the heart of Provence’s most idyllic landscapes. From hilltop villages and lavender fields to intimate restaurants and luxurious retreats, the Luberon offers a perfect blend of relaxation, culture and gastronomic delight.
For more ideas on trips in France and the rest of Europe, see the Near section of our website here.
