Our journey to {RAJASTHAN}:

Driving into New Delhi after our long flight from London were surprised to discover wide, tree-lined avenues, immaculate roundabouts and stately bungalows nestling amid verdant parks. After freshening up at The Imperial Hotel, we headed off for a whistlestop tour of Old Delhi. This was like entering a different world: chaotic, vibrant and captivating.

The Imperial is a beautiful hotel with an old colonial and art deco feel. It is set right in the heart of New Delhi, so was well situated for our brief sightseeing trip. Our opulent suite was adorned with period furnishings, evoking a sense of old-world charm. We had a tea on the terrace of the 1911 restaurant on arrival, which is where we also had breakfast.

In the evening we loved the Patiala Peg bar, named after a polo match played by the team of the King of Patiala, who was known for his refined taste and extravagant lifestyle. It felt like we were being transported back the match played in the early 1900s. Legend has it that he served whisky to a visiting Irish team in enormous portions, or “pegs”, so they wouldn’t play their best!

We had a short stay in Delhi, time to go with a guide to Old Delhi and explore Chandni Chowk, which was once the grandest of markets in India. Chandni Chowk is a long street full of market stalls and vendors which is now described as “a pedestrian-friendly zone”. Maybe this is true compared to a typical Indian street, but it was still full of crowds and chaos! We took a rickshaw ride which wove in and out along narrow lanes, motorbikes darting past in both directions. We also admired the beauty of the old buildings with paint worn away over years in an Old Delhi version of shabby chic! It was a great first taste of the hustle and bustle of India.

We then visited the spice market which was an assault on the senses in the best possible way. The air was thick with the heady aroma of cumin, cardamom, and turmeric, mingling with the earthy scent of dried chilies and fragrant cloves. Vibrant mounds of spices line the narrow streets, with every imaginable hue present: deep reds, bright yellows and earthy browns. Vendors shouted their wares in a lively cacophony.

We finished with a visit to Jama Masjiid, the principal mosque of Old Delhi which is the origin of Chandni Chowk. Jama Masjiid is one of the largest and best known mosques in India and was commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, also the builder of the Taj Mahal.

We had dinner in the Imperial hotel’s Spice Route restaurant. The restaurant’s interiors were visually stunning, with hand-painted murals, rich teakwood carvings, and antique artifacts, inspired by the ancient spice route that linked the Orient with the Western world. The cuisine offered a symphony of flavours rooted in the spice-laden traditions of Southeast Asia.

A few hours drive took us to Jodhpur, where the visual overload of Rajasthan went to a whole new level. This city has a tangle of medieval lanes and alleys lined with blue and white-washed stone dwellings. It’s one of the most Instagrammable places we have ever visited. And it had loads of the hustle and bustle that Anne-Marie in particular loves!

The Raas is nestled at the foot of the towering Mehrangarh Fort. It was a more modern take on Rajasthan luxury, housed within restored 18th-century haveli walls. The rooms and suites combine a contemporary aesthetic with traditional elements. The serene courtyards, pool and spa provided the perfect places to chill and relax from the full-on experience of the town itself.

Our walking tour of Jodhpur began with a visit to the iconic Mehrangarh Fort, an imposing structure that towers over the city, exuding power and grandeur. The fort is a treasure trove of royal history, with intricately adorned palaces, stunning courtyards and exquisite galleries displaying centuries-old artefacts. Here, we got our first taste of the exquisite handiwork of Indian craftspeople who worked on Rajasthan’s beautiful palaces and forts.

Next, we set off to explore the labyrinth of blue houses that give Jodhpur its nickname, the Blue City. The winding streets below the fort are a sea of cobalt: a tradition that dates back centuries when Brahmin houses were painted blue to signify their status. These azure alleys are a photographer’s dream!

The final part of our tour was the bustling streets of the Old Town. There was a sensory overload, with the clatter of tuk-tuks, the vibrant colours of textiles and spices, and the intoxicating aromas of street food filling the air. Exploring the bustling Sardar Market, with the striking clock tower at its heart, we took in the chaotic beauty of daily life.

Darikhana the Raas is perched on the first floor, above the old stables, offering clear views of the Mehrangarh Fort. You can enjoy views of the illuminated fort above and the candlelit Haveli courtyard below. As with most of the hotel restaurants we tried, there is a mix of gourmet Indian cuisine and international cuisine, in case you want a rest from hot, spicy food!

Another drive took us to the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur. This is a bustling, energetic place, full to the brim with sights, sounds, scents and flavours that present Rajasthan in all its vibrancy. As the third point on the classic Golden Triangle, Jaipur epitomises Rajasthan’s colour, its regal heritage and its artisan culture.

The Oberoi Rajvillas was our second experience of Oberoi hotels and it lived up to the high expectations set by our stay in Udaipur. Rajvilas is the epitome of regal luxury, where centuries of Rajasthan grandeur meet modern opulence. The resort is a lush oasis, set amidst 32 acres of landscaped gardens, with intricate frescoes, Mughal arches and traditional haveli-style buildings.

The accommodation at Rajvilas was nothing short of spectacular. Our villa had a private garden with a small plunge pool, handwoven fabrics and richly detailed furnishings, evoking the feeling of residing in a mini palace. Again, the level of service was exceptionally high. Whether it was the personalized welcome with fragrant marigold garlands or the discreet butler service, we were made to feel like royalty at every turn.

Perched majestically on the hills overlooking Jaipur, the fort is a masterpiece of Rajput architecture and grandeur. Built with stunning red sandstone and marble, the fort offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the royals. We were blown away by intricate carvings, with every wall and ceiling a work of art and craftsmanship in its own right.

The City Palace is a living testament to the city’s regal and is still home to Jaipur’s royal family. The palace complex features grand courtyards, lush gardens, and intricately designed buildings housing museums showcasing royal artefacts, textiles, and art collections.

This UNESCO World Heritage site is a fascinating destination. Built-in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II, this vast open-air observatory features colossal stone instruments designed to measure time, track stars, and predict eclipses with astonishing accuracy. The centrepiece is the world’s largest stone sundial, which still functions today.

The iconic Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of Winds,” is an extraordinary five-story façade of pink sandstone adorned with hundreds of intricately carved jharokhas (small windows). This architectural marvel was designed to allow royal women to observe street festivals without being seen, blending privacy with elegance. The honeycomb structure glows in the early morning light, making it one of Jaipur’s most photographed landmarks.

Anne-Marie’s favourite part of the tour: a multitude of market stalls selling all sorts of jewellery!

The fine-dining restaurant at the hotel served another selection of traditional Rajasthan I dishes and international flavours. The special touch in this venue was a display of dancing followed by an invitation for diners to join in: Anne-Marie didn’t need to be asked twice!

Villa Palladio was definitely one of the most memorable dining experiences of the whole trip. As non-residents, we had to pay a sort of entrance fee to have lunch there but it was worth it. This visually stunning boutique hotel exudes opulence and charm with its vibrant, maximalist design. It is an explosion of vivid reds, pinks, and intricate patterns, reminiscent of the Mughal era’s grandeur, yet with a playful modern twist. We had one of the nicest Italian lunches we’ve ever had!

Samode Haveli, once the royal family’s private residence, was another great lunch spot and another hotel option, if you’re looking for something more intimate and boutique-y. The architecture dates from the 19th century and features arched doorways, intricate frescoes and vibrant courtyards, adorned with Mughal-style fountains.

We had dinner in Bar Palladio, owned by the same people who run Villa Palladio. This was another visually stunning place, this time with a blue colour palette. The place had a buzzy, urban vibe with the best dining spots in the outdoor garden.

Our next drive took us to the Ranthambore National Park, a wild jungle scrub stretching across 392 km2, watched over by the imposing Ranthambore Fort.

Tucked away on the fringes of Rajasthan’s Ranthambore National Park, Aman-i-Khás is an exclusive wilderness retreat that redefines luxury in the wild. Our spacious, air-conditioned tent was a sanctuary of understated elegance, featuring a canopied ceiling, king-sized bed and private lounge that open up to the rugged beauty of the surrounding landscape. We even had our own private butler on hand to help us with anything we needed!

Evenings started sitting by a crackling fire under starlit skies sipping on cocktails before dining on the terrace.

The main activity was a series of four game drives by jeep, conducted in the early morning and late afternoon. Having been lucky enough to do a full-on safari in Kenya, the gazelle, birds and monkeys was saw on our first three game drives were good to see but not that impressive. However, on the fourth and final trip, we were finally rewarded with a sighting of the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger.

Alwar is largely off the beaten track and made it onto our itinerary as wanted a place to chill out and relax for a few days at the Aman resort there.

Amanbagh has a spectacular setting in the foothills of the Aravalli Hills and just the tranquil retreat we were looking for. It is a serene oasis offering a blend of luxury and Rajasthan’s heritage, with high domed ceilings, intricate archways and expansive courtyards surrounded by lush gardens. Our spacious suite had sandstone exteriors and a chic interior that exuded the understated elegance typical of an Aman resort.

We chilled and read by the beautiful pool and also had an appointment with an Ayurvedic doctor, followed by a series of tailored spa treatments.

The cowdust tour was a highlight of our stay and a great way to explore rural Rajasthan. We headed out at sunset in an open-top jeep during the peak hour when cows are led home along the dusty road, with the driver taking us to see his family house where had tea.

We ended our trip on a high with a stay in Agra to see the shimmering walls, delicately inlaid stones and majestic towers of the Taj Mahal.

We splashed out for our last hotel by staying at the Oberoi Amarvilas. What truly sets it apart is the breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal, visible from the hotel’s stunning terrace and from our suite. Waking up to see the marble masterpiece bathed in the golden light of dawn from the comfort of our room was a memorable experience worth paying for! Inspired by Mughal palaces, Amarvilas features grand arches, cascading fountains, and terraced gardens, creating an atmosphere of regal indulgence.

We only had one night in the hotel and had dinner on the terrace, with a beautiful view over the pool.

As the sun started to set, we departed on a privately guided visit to the magical, romantic and ethereal Taj Mahal. It was built in the 17th Century as a monument of love by Shah Jehan for his bride Mumtaz Mahal. This if of course one of the most famous tourist spots in the world and were ready for it to not live up to the hype. But boy did it deliver, being way more beautiful than we had imagined.

Walking through the beautiful and tranquil gardens that surround the architectural wonder was great. But what really took our breath away was being able to appreciate the intricate craftsmanship up close. The monument is constructed from translucent white marble, jade and crystal, with thousands of floral patterns inlaid into the marble. You can see why this magnificent structure took the work of 20,000 workers over a period of 22 years!

We came back a second time to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise, which was also spectacular.

We had one final night at the Leela Palace before heading home to London. The hotel blends majestic architecture with contemporary style and whilst luxurious, it did feel less authentic than The Imperial. The rooftop infinity pool with panoramic views of the city skyline was a great place to hang out for a couple of hours. And the Jamavar restaurant was a final chance to enjoy gourmet Indian flavours.

Our journey through Rajasthan was truly an unforgettable experience, with its rich tapestry of history, vibrant culture and warm hospitality. The stunning monuments, from the towering Amber Fort in Jaipur to the City Palace in Udaipur, are testaments to the opulence and grandeur of Rajasthan’s royal past. Staying in its exquisite palace hotels was like stepping into a bygone era of regal luxury. Beyond the awe-inspiring architecture, Rajasthan is a multi-sensory feast: the vivid colours of bustling markets, the intoxicating aromas of spices and the strains of traditional music. But what truly makes Rajasthan special is its people: their kindness, warm smiles and genuine hospitality make you feel welcome at every turn, with memories of this remarkable destination lingering long after our trip was over.