Our trip to {BRAZIL}:

Rio de Janeiro embodies the very spirit of Brazil: a city of golden beaches, stunning sights, throbbing nightlife and an unbreakable joie de vivre. Happiness to be living by the beach under the sun radiated from the people we met, smiling and laughing and seemingly undeterred by the challenges they face.

We started our trip with in style by staying at the Belmond Copacabana Palace is a bright white beacon of elegance, bang on the edge of Copacabana Beach. It has hosted royalty and celebrities since the 1920s, cementing its place as Rio’s most iconic hotel. Rooms are sophisticated and understated, with muted colours and beautiful bed linens. We paid the premium to have rooms with view of the beach. It was worth every penny to wake up on the first morning of our trip, pull back the curtains and stare out over the legendary beach.

Outside, the pool was a refreshing oasis in the heart of the city, perfect for relaxing after a day spent exploring Rio. The Belmond offers a timeless escape, its glamour a perfect match for Rio’s own iconic style. Across the road, hotel attendants were on hand to look after us on a private section of the beach. Walking along Copacabana was an experience in itself: people-watching here is practically a sport!

Our journey through Rio’s culinary scene began with a lunch at Confeitaria Colombo. This Belle Époque café established in 1894 is a cultural institution, with ornate stained glass, intricate woodwork and soaring mirrors. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch beneath the high ceilings.

For a touch of contemporary culinary flair, we dined at Mee, the Copacabana Palace’s Michelin-starred Pan-Asian restaurant. The space is chic and modern, with a striking red and gold colour scheme. The menu features innovative takes on traditional Asian dishes, each plate artfully presented.

For a night of true Carioca spirit, we headed to Scenarium in the heart of Lapa, Rio’s samba district. The Stepping into Scenarium, Samba rhythms immediately filled the air, evoking the rich, colorful soul of Rio. Dancers strutted across the floor with infectious energy, including one older gentleman in a white suit whose moves had young women queuing up to try and dance with him! We enjoyed a lively dinner and then danced to the different live bands playing on the three floors. Like many live music venues we’ve visited the food was OK but the entertainment was the main attraction.

A cable car ride up to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain offered a breathtaking panorama of Rio’s spectacular landscape. As the city stretches below, it was the perfect vantage point to appreciate Rio’s unique blend of urban and natural beauty.

Christ the Redeemer is a classic tourist trip sight, but one that is still worth doing. The train journey up the mountain was part of the experience, winding through lush rainforest before reaching the summit. From the top, the entire city unfolds below, a testament to Rio’s stunning geography and vibrant spirit.

During our trip we were lucky to be able to do a tour deep into the heart of Rocinha, one of Rio’s largest and oldest favelas. This was one of the most memorable parts of our trip to Brazil, starting by riding pillion on motorbikes up narrow, winding streets to the top of the favela, feeling like we were in a Bond movie! The favela was a labyrinth of alleyways with a chaotic spaghetti of tangled, makeshift electrical wiring stretching across the rooftops and alleyways. The views from Rocinha were breathtaking, with the thousands of tightly packed houses a backdrop to Rio’s skyline below.

A large-scale “pacification” campaign had reduced crime and made the favela safe for tourists at the time we visited. You will need to check this is still the case when you visit Rio.

Iguassu Falls is up there with the most stunning natural sights we have seen on any trip anywhere. This is the largest waterfall system in the world, stretching almost 3km along the border of Argentina and Brazi. To give an idea of the scale and grandeur of the place, the Iguaçu Falls are taller than Niagara Falls and twice as wide! With 275 different vertical drops cascading in unison, the sheer power of the water is impressive. The lush greenery of the national park adds to the beauty, creating a live, never-ending show of nature’s raw majesty.

This luxurious pink walled palace of the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas is the only hotel located right within the national park, mere steps from the falls. As guests, we were able to visit the park before and after opening, allowing early morning and evening views of the cascades without the crowds. The stunning setting, colonial-style architecture, lush grounds and impeccable service made this a truly memorable experience.

The main attraction is, of course, Iguaçu Falls itself. We began our visit on the Brazilian side, walking along trails that offered panoramic views of the falls in all their glory.

Crossing into Argentina, we ventured onto wooden walkways that took us right up close to the roaring water. We also went on a thrilling boat ride into the spectacular “Devil’s Throat,” where you fully get to feel the force of the falls.

Our next stop was Trancoso, an enchanting village on Brazil’s Bahia coast. The village’s centerpiece is the Quadrado, a wide, tree-lined square bordered by candy coloured houses with a beautifully preserved church at one corner. At night, the Quadrado transforms into a softly lit gathering spot, home to pretty boutiques, small galleries and simple local restaurants.

In the heart of the Quadrado, UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa is a destination exuding rustic elegance that we had read about in several style magazines. Created by a former Diesel creative director, each of the resort’s casas are a little bit of design heaven, featuring furniture and objects crafted from upcycled materials. We stayed in the charming, green Gulab Mahal cottage right on the Quadrado, with other rooms located in treehouses inside the grounds.

UXUA has a lovely pool area where with a lounge for long, lazy breakfasts and general chilling. A short stroll away, the UXUA beach club was the perfect spot for sunbathing, dipping in the sea and enjoying fresh lunches and cold beers. On one unforgettable evening were we lucky to UXUA’s full moon party, dancing to the rhythms of Brazilian beats and enjoying a live capoeira show.

This local restaurant right next to Uxua had a lovely terrace on the Quadrado and served us fresh seafood, capturing the boho chic spirit of Trancoso.

Salvador de Bahia is the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, its vibrant streets lined with colourful houses and churches gilded with fine gold. With a heritage that pulses through music, dance and art, Salvador celebrates its African roots with unmatched pride.

Right in the heart of Salvador, Villa Bahia transports you back in time with its beautifully restored colonial architecture. Rooms are decorated in themes that pay homage to Brazil’s heritage, from the spice trade to Portuguese influences. The hotel’s intimate courtyard was a tranquil retreat.

Exploring Salvador on foot is a journey into a vibrant past. The narrow streets are filled with the sounds of drums and the melodies of street musicians. And the houses are painted in a kaleidoscope of vivid pastel colours.

There are also countless churches to visit, each filled with incredibly ornate jewels and golden artefacts. And then to relax, plenty of cool bars to pop into for refreshment!

Salvador’s rhythms come to life at Casa do Olodum on Tuesday evenings, when the city gathers to hear performances by some of Brazil’s most iconic musicians, such as the singer and guitarist Geronimo that we got to see (below). This felt like a really authentic experience with a lively crowd made up mainly of locals, always a good sign in our book! With no website, it’s best to check with your hotel or on Instagram
to find out if an event is happening.

With a terrace overlooking the water, Amado is the perfect spot to enjoy fresh seafood while taking in the views. The flavors here are an artful blend of local ingredients and refined presentation.

Lençóis Maranhenses is a surreal, almost otherworldly desert landscape and the most breathtaking sight we saw in Brazil. It took effort to reach this remote destination, with a flight to São Luis, a drive to our hotel in Barreirinhas and then a truck and boat trip to get to the park itself. But the effort is definitely work it.

This expansive national park stretches over 1,550 km² of rolling white sand dunes. During the rainy season, from late January to June, crystal-clear lagoons form between the dunes, creating a mesmerising contrast between the pristine white sand and vibrant blue water. It’s a place that continues to linger in our memories as one of the highlights of this trip and indeed of any trip taken before or since.

Our base for exploring Lençóis was Barreirinhas, about an hour’s drive from the national park. We stayed at Porto Preguiças Resort one of the few options of places to stay. The hotel was relatively simple, but had tropical gardens and a pool for relaxing after a long day travelling to and exploring the dunes. The on-site restaurant served decent food, without being a culinary highlight our trip!

Exploring Lençóis Maranhenses National Park began with a drive in a rugged truck, crossing rivers and feeling a bit like Indiana Jones! On arrival in the park, we hiked for about an hour, entering deeper into the park’s untouched dunes.

Once surrounded by the seemingly endless dunes, with the occasional lagoon appearing like an oasis, we felt like we were in a lunar dreamscape. The pristine silence, broken only by the soft crunch of sand, heightened the sense of solitude.

We jogged down the sand banks before diving into the clear blue pools, with the impression you were on a Maldivian island.

Our mini-adventure continued with a private motorboat tour down the Rio Preguiças, winding through mangroves teeming with wildlife. As we navigated the river, we spotted birds and monkeys peeking from the branches. We arrived for a lunch break at Caburé, a remote riverside village, before jumping into a 4×4 vehicle to cross beaches and sandy tracks toward the port of Tutoia.

Here, we boarded another boat to cross the Parnaiba Delta, stopping as the sun set to watch the incredible sight of hundreds of pink birds simultaneously arriving to roost in a perfectly synchronised symphony of colour (below right). Our journey ended at Porto dos Tatus, where another 4×4 awaited to whisk us to the quiet shores of Barra Grande.

Barra Grande is a charming seaside village beloved by kitesurfers and those seeking a relaxed slice of coastal Brazil. The vibe here is laid-back, with a few boutique hotels and beachside eateries that serve up fresh seafood and local flavors.

Our home in Barra Grande was the aptly named Chic Hotel Boutique, a stylish retreat just a short stroll from the beach. The rooms are beautifully designed, blending modern aesthetics with the laid-back feel of a beach house and the pool is a refreshing haven for cooling off. The on-site restaurant served local dishes, making it easy to unwind and indulge in the flavours of the region without venturing far.

Departing from Barra Grande, we embarked on yet another 4×4 journey, our bags strapped to the roof, driving across dunes until we reached the Coreaú River. Here, we crossed on a makeshift ferry before continuing by 4×4 over sandy tracks, finally arriving in the enchanting town of Jericoacoara, known for its streets made entirely of sand. Jeri as it’s known is a chilled out place infused with the spirit of Brazil’s beach culture.

We chose to stay at the luxurious boutique hotel Essenza, attracted by the location bang on the beach. The first floor suites we stayed in featured private plunge pools on the balcony with breathtaking ocean views. The main infinity pool stretches seamlessly toward the sea.

One of Jericoacoara’s most famous landmarks is the towering sand dune that overlooks the town, drawing both locals and visitors for the sunset ritual. We joined the crowd as they climbed the dune, rewarded with a view of the sun setting over the horizon and casting a warm glow.

Exploring Jericoacoara by quad bike and on horseback offered two unique ways to experience the surrounding landscapes.

We chose to dine out one night at the restaurant of the nearby Blue Hotel. We dined with our bare feet in the sand and the sea breeze as our backdrop on a menu featuring fresh, local ingredients prepared with a touch of flair.

We had a long day of driving, flying and driving again to travel on the coastal town of Pipa, named after a rock that resembles a wine barrel (“pipa” in Portuguese). This has grown from a quiet fishing village into one of Brazil’s most charming beach destinations, with lush green rainforest, golden sands and the sparkling Atlantic.

Nestled in the heart of Pipa, Toca da Coruja was our sanctuary in this seaside town. Surrounded by tropical gardens, the hotel offers a blend of rustic elegance and luxury. The bungalows had a bit of a safari lodge vibe to them. The on-site restaurant combines regional flavors with contemporary flair.

Pipa’s beaches are beloved by surfers and sun-seekers alike, with beach bars offering refreshing drinks and tasty snacks. Dolphin Beach and Madeiro Beach were our favourites, each just a short walk from the hotel. Watching surfers glide across the waves while we lounged on the sand was the perfect way to embrace Pipa’s laid-back charm.

One of the highlights of our time in Brazil was a sailboat trip on an “escuna,” a traditional wooden boat. Setting sail towards Lagoa das Guarairas, we passed Dolphin Bay and other stunning beaches, eventually anchoring alongside another boat to pick up fresh seafood. Our captain then prepared a delicious lunch on board, served with refreshing caipirinhas. It is definitely worth asking your travel company or hotel to try and arrange a similar trip.

We flew back to Rio to end our trip, basing ourselves this time in the chic and sophisticated neighbourhood of Ipanema, known for its lively beach culture, upscale boutiques and trendy restaurants.

Our final stay at the Fasano in Ipanema was a stylish farewell to Rio. The hotel is part of the uber cool Fasano group, that also has outlets in Sao Paulo and Buenos Aries. The rooms are some of the sleekest we’ve ever stayed in, with an understated sense of luxury.

The rooftop pool had one of the best views of any pool we’ve been lucky enough to lounge by, with the iconic Ipanema Beach as a backdrop!

Gero Rio is an elegant take on Italian cuisine, with a modern, bold look designed by architect Miguel Pinto Guimarães. The terrace provides an open-air experience, whilst inside red brick walls, copper pillars and rich wooden furniture create a warm and inviting atmosphere.

A trip to Brazil is a journey of contrasts, where each destination offering a unique glimpse into the country’s vibrant spirit, rich culture and breathtaking natural beauty. From the pulsating rhythms of Rio to the serene beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses, Brazil captivated us with its boundless energy and warmth and diversity. Brazil remains our favourite every family holiday full of unforgettable shared moments that were a feast for the eyes and food for the soul.