A trip to {CAMBODIA}:

Beautifully situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers, Phnom Penh was once considered among the loveliest cities of French Indochina. The city is the main base for exploring the troubled history of Cambodia by visiting the Killing Fields. But there is also a lighter, brighter side to the city, with experiences including the ornate Royal Palace, the bustling central market and a lively riverside scene with bustling restaurants, cafés and bars.

The Sofitel Phnom Penh is an elegant hotel blending traditional Cambodian aesthetics with modern comforts. It was a comfortable, luxurious and calm base to relax after the fascinating but challenging experience of the Killing Fields.

A tour of Cheoung Ek, now commonly known as the Killing Fields, is an emotional journey through Cambodia’s harrowing past, a tribute to the victims of one of the 20th century’s darkest chapters. The experience was both heartbreaking and humbling, serving as a poignant reminder of the resilience of the Cambodian people. In the 1970’s Cheoung Ek became a place of execution and burial for thousands of victims of the Khmer Rouge. Over 100 graves have since been excavated and the site is a memorial for the victims. At the centre of the site is a Buddhist stupa with windows filled with over 5,000 human skulls.

The Tuol Sleng Museum we visited was originally a local high school which was taken over in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge and converted into “Security Prison 21” (S-21). During the three years of Khmer Rouge brutality the prison became synonymous with terror.

One of the most memorable aspects of our visit was our guide, whose personal connection to Cambodia’s tragic history made the experience both poignant and inspiring. Despite having lost several family members to the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime, he exuded warmth, friendliness and a sense of hope for the future.

On a lighter note, we also managed to squeeze in a small city tour of Phnom Penh, heading down streets that buzzed with tuk-tuks and street vendors on the way to the Central Market. The Art Deco building is shaped in the form of a cross with a central dome. Four wings are filled with shops selling gold and silver jewellery and around the main building are stalls with an explosion of colours, selling flowers, clothing and fresh food.

The Royal Palace is a striking structure near the riverfront. As the palace is the official residence of the King, you are allowed only to see it from the outside, though you can visit the Throne Hall and Silver Palace. The ‘Hor Samran Phirun’ or the Royal rest house is a pretty place where King waits to mount an elephant for royal processions (below).

Tired from our travels, we had dinner for our first night in one of the hotels restaurants, Fu Lu Zu. It specialises in Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine, with a range of dishes from dim sum delights to rich, flavourful stir-fries and seafood dishes.

Malis serves Cambodian cuisine in a serene courtyard with a flowing fish pond, lush greenery, and intricate architecture. Elegant indoor seating surrounds the space if you want to eat inside. The Street 308 area near Malis is a buzzy, lively area with loads of bars for pre-dinner cocktails.

An early start saw us depart for a five hour drive to Sihanoukville Port where we said goodbye to our guide and took a boat transfer to our next stop, Song Saa Private Island in the Koh Rong Archipelago.

Song Saa is a beautiful, tranquil and indulgent escape that we’d read about in Conde Nast Traveller’s Chic Stays book. The eco-conscious luxury resort offers a serene setting surrounded by turquoise waters and lush greenery, with a blend of barefoot luxury and eco-conscious design. A boho-chic aesthetic combines lots of natural wood and white furnishings but also vibrant and colourful touches too.

The staff, many of whom hail from nearby villages, provided warm, heartfelt service. They made us feel at home from the moment we were greeted on the jetty by a welcome party to the sad moment the team waved us goodbye! Song Saa is also deeply committed to sustainability and social impact. The resort supports marine conservation and community development programs and uses materials like reclaimed driftwood to create a stylish and sustainable interior design.

The Maldives-style villas have uninterrupted views of the ocean (even from the bathroom!), with ours also having the luxury of a small private beach and plunge pool.

At the heart of the resort is the over-water bar, where we sipped cocktails while watching the sun dip into the horizon. Dining at Song Saa is an experience in itself, with the resort restaurant offering a fusion of Cambodian flavours and international cuisine, using fresh, organic ingredients sourced from local communities.

We took a boat from Song Saa back to mainland and then flew to Siem Reap to end our trip on a high.

We knew were if for a treat at Amansara when were greeted at the airport and whisked away in a vintage Rolls-Royce, a nod to its royal past! This beautiful property was once the guesthouse of Cambodia’s King Sihanouk, and now offers a regal experience for travellers. The hotel is small but perfectly formed, with the archetypal Aman style of minimalist beauty and attention to detail. One night, for fun, we slightly displaced the perfectly aligned chairs on the terrace (below left), only to find them back in place the next morning!

The rooms are minimalist yet luxurious, each with a private courtyard or pool, a serene setting to unwind after a day spent exploring the temples of Angkor.

Angkor Wat is a truly wonderful wonder of the world that takes your breath away. The most iconic part of the complex is Angkor Wat itself, the grand temple that represents the pinnacle of classical Khmer architecture. But we discovered that the site is not just one temple, as we thought, but rather an expansive complex of impressive structures spread over 400+ acres.

Our sunrise visit was an unforgettable experience. An advantage of staying at the Aman was being able to arrive in the pre-dawn darkness before the crowds. As the first light began to glow, the iconic silhouette of Angkor Wat’s five towering spires was mirrored perfectly in the water below.

Beyond the main temple, another captivating area was Ta Prohm, famous for its appearance in the movie Tomb Raider. This temple stands out due to the massive tree roots that have become intertwined with the stone ruins, giving a sense of the untamed jungle reclaiming what was once a thriving religious site.

Some people only see Angkor Wat when visiting Siem Reap, which is s shame. We found the city itself to be a vibrant and buzzy place to explore in its own right. An afternoon tuk-tuk ride was a fun way to experience the charm of the city, riding along the river bank and then past lively streets, with bustling markets and colourful storefronts.

The circular Dining Room is the striking centrepiece of the Aman hotel. It opens onto a terrace overlooking verdant lawns and has a menu including both traditional Khmer and International cuisines.

Malis Restaurant offered a contemporary twist on traditional Cambodian cuisine with the elegant ambiance featuring lush greenery and serene water features.

We had lunch in this beautiful boutique hotel, which would be a candidate for a place to stay if we went back to Cambodia. This tranquil escape is a little bit outside the town centre, with a series of wooden walkways criss-crossing a green sea of rice paddy fields.

A journey through Cambodia is an enriching experience full of contrasts. From the heartbreaking history of the Killing Fields to the stunning sights of Angkor Wat to the tranquil shores of Song Saa, Cambodia offered us an unforgettable blend of culture, relaxation and exploration.