A journey to {LOS ANGELES}:

Glamour, Grit and Ocean Cool

Los Angeles retains a mythical aura linked to the creativity, energy and glamour of Hollywood. Many of the people here are in or aspire to be in the creative industries. It’s a sprawling city with many different neighbourhoods, each with their own rhythm, style and identity. We found that it took time to get to really know the city, with the best spots spread apart and not always easy to find. But after visiting several times, we have come to love our time in LA.

When to visit?

While summer is a popular time to go to LA, April/May and September/October are also good times to visit. The weather remains mild and often sunny but the crowds are thinner. These months offer a more relaxed experience, with easier reservations at resorts and restaurants while still enjoying the city’s signature sunshine.

Overview of our trip

We’ve been lucky enough to visit LA several times over the years. So, we have compiled here some of our favourite places to stay, dine and drink plus some cultural activities too. We cover two areas which are less likely to be on a typical tourist trip: the gritty creativity of the Downtown Arts District and the winding, view-filled streets of the Hollywood Hills. We also explore the seaside charm of Santa Monica. You could pick one area to discover for a short break or do all three if you have a week or so.

Downtown Arts District

The Arts District is part of the up and coming Downtown LA (DTLA) area on the east side of the city. It’s an area where raw creativity meets gritty charm. Once a hub of warehouses and factories, it’s now a buzzing mix of street art, independent galleries, cool cafés and design-forward shops. It is a little rough around the edges but also full of character. So, you’ll find some of the hippest restaurants in LA right next to graffiti-covered, disused buildings. It’s not polished, but that’s the point.

Stay

SOHO WAREHOUSE

Soho Warehouse captures the essence of the Downtown Arts District. This members club and hotel is housed in a 1916 art deco factory that was previously a recording studio then an art gallery. Layers of graffiti from the past remain, woven into the fabric of the space. Now, the walls host work from contemporary creatives. Soho Warehouse also boasts Downtown’s most coveted high-rise pool. It’s more a place for lounging and cocktails than swimming lengths though!

The bedrooms at Soho Warehouse blend industrial chic with signature Soho House styling: exposed brick walls, vintage rugs, velvet sofas and curated art that nods to the neighbourhood’s creative roots. Rooms range from snug, loft-style rooms to spacious suites like the one we luckily got upgraded to! (below).

The main restaurant on the top floor offers a stylish yet relaxed dining experience. The setting blends warm terracotta tones, lush greenery and retro charm (below). It features a Mediterranean-inspired menu featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients, including wood-fired flatbreads, grilled seafood and vibrant salads. We had dinner and a couple of lovely breakfasts there: the home-made blueberry muffin was historic! On the ground floor, The Garden is a more casual café with a courtyard garden where you can unwind over coffee, breakfast, salads and light bites.

The gym at Soho Warehouse covers two floors with everything you need for a workout plus a studio for classes, including the complementary yoga class we took.

Note: To book a room at Soho Warehouse, you need to be a Soho House member or join Soho Friends, an affordable option that gives access to bedroom bookings, events and store discounts (£140 at the time of writing)

Do

THE BROAD

The Broad is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience LA’s contemporary art. Housing over 2,000 works from the collection of Eli and Edythe Broad, this striking structure is home to a curated collection of iconic modern art. Jeff Koons’ stainless steel balloon animals, Jean-Michel Basquiat’s raw, unfiltered works and Yayoi Kusama’s mesmerizing Infinity Mirror Rooms are examples of what is on show. The museum’s free general admission policy makes it an accessible cultural institution in a city known for its exclusivity.

ROW DTLA

Spanning across 32 acres, ROW DTLA is one of LA’s most ambitious and exciting new projects. Rows and rows of fruit and veg warehouses have been repurposed and transformed into cool boutiques, modern art galleries and buzzing restaurants, all housed within a block of blissfully car-free streets. It’s as much of a hit with the city’s foodies as it is with the fashion crowd, who flock here to discover under-the-radar brands.

HAUSER & WIRTH

The opening of the Los Angeles outpost of Hauser & Wirth was a feather in the cap of the flourishing Arts District scene. Set in a vast former flour mill, the gallery retains its grit, with exposed beams and weathered concrete, all tastefully renovated. The gallery also has a pretty sun-soaked garden terrace. Ever-changing, free exhibitions have recently included a spectacular installation by legendary Los Angeles artist David Hammons.

The Artbook bookshop has a good selection of contemporary art and culture titles, including a comprehensive collection of exhibition catalogues. The Ursula Kiosk brings the gallery’s magazine of contemporary culture to life, with works by gallery artists and a selection of recommended publications from friends of the magazine.

Shop

TRACTION AVENUE

Traction Avenue is home to a selection of cool boutiques worth a browse. The DTLA outpost of Le Labo, like all their stores, has the look and feel of a vintage apothecary, with lovely but pricey hand-blended fragrances. Lovestitch (below right) is a bright, bohemian and effortlessly Californian boutique with womenswear and accessories. Neoity is a small and funky boutique that curates cutting-edge streetwear and accessories.

SIGNAL LA

Also on Traction Avenue you will find Signal LA, DTLA’s sleekest secret. The vibe is more curated gallery than a shopping mall, with a collection of independent labels, niche beauty, vintage treasures and one-of-a-kind design finds. Standout stores include Alchemy works with creative home decor, accessories and retro clothes presented in an airy, gallerylike space and Period Connect where vintage racing culture, elevated streetwear, and automotive obsession come together with California cool (below).

HENNESY + INGALLS

Five minutes walk from Traction Avenue on Santa Fe Avenue, Hennessey + Ingalls is a literary treasure trove for any fans of art & design. Shelves brim with books on art, architecture and design.

Dine

One of the attractions of the Arts District was the concentration of hot dining destinations. All the places we talk about below were walking distance from Soho Warehouse.

BESTIA

A cornerstone of LA’s dining renaissance, Bestia is set in a raw, industrial-chic space with exposed brick, copper accents and an open kitchen buzzing with energy. It delivers Italian food with both grit and finesse. We had one of the best pizzas ever and a delicious pasta dish, whilst watching the chefs work their magic: dinner and a show! The noise level adds to the vibe but does make intimate conversations a challenge!

DAMIAN

Damian is a contemporary Mexican restaurant from the chef behind Mexico City’s famed Pujol. It offers a sensory journey through bold, unexpected flavours. Ribs, lacquered in mole, arrive alongside kimchi-fried rice, a fusion of cultures that feels uniquely Californian. Beyond the food, Damian’s beverage program has a focus on artisanal spirits that highlight Mexico’s rich distilling traditions.

MANUELA

Housed within the Hauser & Wirth art complex, Manuela is an intersection of food, art and culture. This effortlessly stylish restaurant, named after Manuela Wirth, pays tribute to both Southern hospitality and farm-to-table Californian cuisine. Artwork adorns the walls inside and outside there is a lovely garden terrace. The menu highlights seasonal ingredients sourced from local farms.

BAVEL

We read a lot about Bavel but ran out of time to try it: one for our next trip! A culinary homage to the diverse flavours of the Middle East, it is the brainchild of the duo behind Bestia. The menu strikes a balance between tradition and innovation, with Middle Eastern dishes served with a California-inspired twist. The dining room itself is warm and inviting, with hanging greenery and earthy tones creating a lively, welcoming atmosphere.

Photo courtesy of baveldtla.com

Ice cream

SALT & STRAW

Salt & Straw is more than just an ice cream shop, it’s a sensory experience. The small-batch, handmade flavours lean on creativity and locally sourced ingredients, resulting in unexpected pairings that somehow work. Whether it’s the gooey, salty-sweet perfection of Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons or the bright, tart contrast of Honey Lavender, every scoop feels like an adventure.

Hollywood Hills

The laid-back, sun-drenched hills above Hollywood are full of charm—where winding roads lead to secret city views, classic LA architecture, and that iconic sign. Here’s how we spent a few days in the neighbourhood.

Stay

1 HOTEL WEST HOLLYWOOD

1 Hotel West Hollywood on Sunset Boulevard, blends laid-back California luxury with sustainability-focused design. The location puts you at the crossroads of West Hollywood and the Hollywood Hills: close to the buzz of the Sunset Strip but with panoramic views stretching from downtown LA to the Pacific on a clear day. The hotel’s interiors are all warm wood, native greenery, reclaimed materials, and floor-to-ceiling windows that let the LA sunshine pour in. It feels more like an eco-minded retreat than a traditional city hotel.

Rooms are spacious and serene, with earthy tones, organic textures, filtered water taps, and plush, low-profile beds. Many offer expansive city or hillside views. The rooftop pool is a standout, with sweeping vistas and a scene-y bar that comes to life at sunset. There’s also a full wellness floor (including a Bamford spa) and an all-day restaurant that celebrates fresh, seasonal California ingredients.

EVERLY HOLLYWOOD

Everly Hollywood as a stylish and affordable hotel option. With modern interiors, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a rooftop pool with sweeping views of LA, it’s a sleek, comfortable base just moments from Hollywood Boulevard. Bonus: it’s pet-friendly and has a lively ground-floor bar that’s perfect for a pre-dinner drink.

Do

WALK THE HILLS

We started our stay by walking through the Hollywood Hills and admiring the stunning homes nestled into the landscape. The streets twist and turn to reveal breathtaking views over the city. You can also take a scenic loop around the Hollywood Reservoir, a peaceful, palm-lined path that offers a perfect view of the Hollywood Sign.

PARAMOUNT STUDIOS TOUR

For a true taste of Hollywood history, we visited the legendary Paramount Studios. The VIP takes you behind the scenes of sound stages, backlots and iconic filming locations. Guides share stories from the golden age of film through to modern-day productions.

GRIFFITH OBERVATORY

The Art Deco Griffith Observatory is one of the city’s most prominent landmarks, up high in the Hollywood Hills. It offers stellar views of both the sprawling city below and the twinkling skies above.

The observatory has also made guest appearances in several iconic films, including La La Landand Rebel Without A Cause.

Dine

BACARI SILVERLAKE

In nearby Silverlake, Bacari is lively and cool spot for dinner. Even on a Monday night on our last visit, the place was buzzing. It has a twinkly outdoor terrace, warm lighting and cozy, eclectic decor. The food leans Mediterranean, with delicious Middle Eastern-inspired small plates ideal for sharing.

EL FLORIDITA

El Floridita is a beloved local spot known for its Cuban flavours and electric energy. After dinner, the restaurant transforms into a salsa club complete with a live band and a packed dance floor that keeps going late into the night.

Breakfast

BEACHWOOD CAFÉ

Beachwood Café is a neighbourhood spot has a bright, retro vibe and a relaxed local crowd. We grabbed a sunny window booth and tucked into classic breakfast plates: fluffy pancakes, avocado toast and coffee. It’s a great spot to start your day before heading into the hills.

RÉPUBLIQUE BAKERY & CAFÉ

Housed in a stunning, cathedral-like space on La Brea Avenue, République is part French bakery, part all-day café, and entirely a must-visit. The front section of the building is home to the bakery and coffee bar, where glass cases overflow with buttery croissants, seasonal fruit tarts, and decadent brioche. The vibe is lively but relaxed, with high ceilings, exposed brick, and communal tables that fill up quickly—especially on weekends. The pastries are among some of the best in LA, and the breakfast and brunch menu features classic French fair with a California twist. Go early and be ready to queue; it’s worth it!

Shop

These are boutiques we’ve read about but didn’t have time to visit—so they’re top of the list for next time. If you do shop in any of them, let us know! They’re all clustered in the same area, just off Santa Monica Boulevard, so should be walkable in a couple of hours.

BDDW

Known for its beautifully crafted furniture and homeware, BDDW is a design lover’s dream. The LA outpost features hand-built pieces with a rustic-modern aesthetic—think leather, wood, and ceramics in earthy tones. More gallery than store, it’s the kind of place where every object feels special.

JF CHEN

A vast, curated showroom filled with everything from mid-century modern icons to rare antiques and contemporary art pieces, JF Chen is a destination for serious collectors and design obsessives alike.

JUST ONE EYE

A concept store that brings together fashion, art, design, and objects under one roof. Just One Eye features high-end clothing from labels like The Row and Rick Owens, alongside art collaborations and one-of-a-kind pieces.

JACQUES MARIE MAGE

For those who take their eyewear seriously, Jacques Marie Mage is the ultimate destination. This LA-based brand creates limited-edition sunglasses and optical frames with bold, vintage-inspired silhouettesL crafted in Japan, but unmistakably Californian in spirit.

Santa Monica

Santa Monica is a vibrant coastal town where laid‐back beach vibes meet upscale urban sophistication. From luxury hotels with sweeping ocean views to lively bike rides along the sandy shore, this part of Los Angeles offers an irresistible blend of style, history and endless sunshine.

Stay

SHUTTERS ON THE BEACH

A true beachfront icon, Shutters on the Beach is one of the only luxury hotels in Santa Monica that sits directly on the sand. Located at the edge of Pico Boulevard, it’s just steps from the ocean and a short walk or bike ride to the Santa Monica Pier, Third Street Promenade and the buzzing beach path that runs south to Venice.

The hotel blends classic beach house charm with polished California luxury: whitewashed wood, plush sofas and fireplaces. Rooms and suites are elegantly relaxed, with four-poster beds, oversized tubs and many offering full ocean views. Thoughtful touches you’d find in a beautifully curated home include coffee table books, soft throws and a colour palette of soft blues, whites, and creams.

THE GEORGIAN

Perched on Ocean Avenue with a front-row view of the Pacific, The Georgian is a storied Art Deco landmark that has been meticulously restored and reimagined. Originally opened in 1933, this vibrant turquoise gem now combines historic glamour with contemporary luxury. The recent renovation has brought new life to the interiors with bold Art Deco lines, vintage-inspired furnishings, rich colours and a touch of Hollywood golden-era flair.

Rooms range from classic queens to spacious suites, many with ocean-facing windows. Downstairs, there is a speakeasy-style bar and restaurant, while the sunny terrace overlooking the coast is perfect for people-watching. With the beach across the street and the shops and cafés of downtown Santa Monica just behind, you’re perfectly placed for your Santa Monica stay.

Photo courtesy of: thegeorgian.com

Do

BIKE THE BEACH

Rent a bike and enjoy a scenic ride along the coastline all the way to Venice Beach, where you’ll be treated to expansive ocean views. The ride concludes with a glimpse of the lively, colourful atmosphere that defines Venice Beach.

VENICE CANALS

Explore the charming Venice Canals, a hidden urban oasis that winds through a network of serene waterways and picturesque walkways. It offers a peaceful contrast to the bustling beach scene.

Dine

SHUTTERS ON THE BEACH

The restaurant at Shutters on the Beach delivers a dining experience that is as refined as its surroundings. With a menu inspired by fresh coastal ingredients and a setting that exudes relaxed elegance, it’s the perfect spot for a memorable meal right by the ocean.

Breakfast, Brunch & Coffee

FIGTREE

Figtree is a local neighbourhood café with a warm, inviting decor. Serving up hearty breakfasts and artisanal coffee, it’s the ideal spot to start your day in Santa Monica with a dose of homey charm and great flavours.

ELEPHANTE

At Elephante, enjoy an effortless blend of Mediterranean-inspired dishes in a setting that is as stylish as it is inviting. The outdoor terrace offers spectacular views of the ocean, making it a the perfect spot for breakfast or brunch before a day at the beach.

GJUSTA

Gjusta has modern, industrial-chic decor and an eclectic menu that blends casual fare with gourmet touches. Its outdoor areas, complete with a charming on-site bakery, create a relaxed atmosphere perfect for brunch or a light bite.

Why a trip to Los Angeles?

LA is a city of hidden layers waiting for you to discover, with an underlying current of creativity and coolness from its Hollywood associations. Whether you want to dip into art galleries, dine at hip restaurants, hike to the Hollywood sign or simply sit with a coffee watching the world go by, there’s a version of LA to suit every kind of traveller.