Our trip to {FORMENTERA}:

One thing to say upfront about staying on Formentera is that the selection of hotels is quite limited. Many people who visit the island own a property or rent a villa, something we are yet to try. The hotels you can book are mainly boutique beachside properties that are beautiful but not cheap! Out of peak season in September, expect to pay £500+ a night for a typical stay.

Teranka is a beautiful boutique hotel and one of the best-designed places we’ve stayed in anywhere; we couldn’t stop taking photos! The hotel is small in size, with just 35 rooms and suites, but big on style. The location is hard to beat, just steps from Playa Migjorn and close to one of the island’s popular beach restaurants, 10.7 (see Dine section below).

The design is cool, contemporary and pared back, with natural tones of white, stone and sand offset by wood and woven textures. Carefully curated artwork is on show throughout, and there is a library in the lounge with a thoughtfully selected range of books.

The rooms follow the same thoughtful aesthetic. Some overlook the pool, while others face out to the sea. We stayed in one with a partial sea view — calm, light and well-proportioned — while the more premium rooms look directly onto the water. For maximum space (and splashing out), the garden suites offer larger layouts and more privacy.

The pool area is another highlight. It’s not oversized but beautifully designed, with lots of lounging spots, sunbeds and shaded daybeds scattered around, so it never feels crowded. There is also a pool bar for ordering refreshments, but most guests picking cocktails or rosé!

Wellbeing is taken seriously. We joined complimentary yoga and Pilates sessions in a beautiful pavilion made from tree branches that looked like something out of an installation by artist Andy Goldsworthy (below right). Practising there in the early morning light was a memorable experience.

Dining at Teranka was another highlight. Breakfast is served on a lovely terrace overlooking the gardens, and the buffet runs until 11am — perfect for slow mornings. Everything was generous and fresh, from fruit to pastries to cooked dishes. We also had dinner here one night: the roast chicken “payés” for two, cooked slowly in its own juices, was simple but absolutely delicious. The rooftop bar is worth visiting even if you’re not staying — views over the sea as the sun sets make it one of the island’s best spots for a drink.

Service throughout was warm and efficient, striking that balance between friendly and professional. We also appreciated the practical touches: a complimentary ferry from Ibiza with transfers to and from the port, plus beach towels, chairs and bottled water for days spent by the sea.

All of this doesn’t come cheap, as mentioned earlier when talking about Formentera hotels! Teranka is definitely a treat, best suited for couples looking for a stylish, design-led stay. Visiting out of season makes it a little gentler on the wallet.

We didn’t stay at Gecko ourselves, but friends did and loved it. Gecko is right on Playa Migjorn and is as much a beach club as it is a hotel. The atmosphere is lively and social, with music playing from morning through to evening and a steady flow of people between the pool, the beach and the bar.

Rooms are designed in crisp whites and cool blues, reflecting the sea just outside. They’re simple, airy and uncluttered, with balconies or terraces that open straight onto garden or sea views.

The pool is the heart of the hotel, with hammocks, sunbeds and cabanas spread around it, and plenty of staff on hand for drinks and snacks. Just steps away is the beach, making it easy to drift between the two depending on mood.

Photo: https://geckobeachclub.com/en/

Dunas is another hotel we looked at before selecting Teranka. Our friends also stayed here and spoke very highly of it. Once a very simple beach motel, the Marugal group has since given it a careful renovation, keeping the laid-back spirit but adding style and comfort. The hotel is also right on the beach and has a small crescent shaped pool too.

The 45 rooms and suites emphasise simplicity and elegance whilst creating a soothing and inviting atmosphere. Décor is pared back but warm: limewashed walls, indigo fabrics, and big windows that frame the sea. Rooms range from smaller “Cosy” rooms (20-35 m²) with comfortable beds and terraces through to the “Casas del Mar”, a complex of independent buildings on the dunes, just a few steps from the beach. Ranging from 3 to 8 rooms, they can be booked as a whole or individually.

The restaurant at Dunas, Caliu, makes the most of its beachfront setting on Migjorn. The atmosphere is relaxed and open, with tables looking out towards the sea and a menu that centres on Mediterranean classics cooked over an open fire. Dishes are simple but full of flavour — grilled fish, meats and vegetables — using fresh local ingredients that highlight the island’s food culture.

Photo: https://www.dunasdeformentera.com

Formentera’s coastline is its main attraction. We stayed on Playa Migjorn, the longest stretch of beach with both open sandy sections and smaller rocky coves. Beach bars and restaurants sit tucked behind dunes, with a perfect day spent alternating between swimming and long shady lunches!

At the far eastern end of Migjorn is Calo des Mort, a small rocky bay where cliffs wrap around clear water. It is worth the walk, especially in the early morning when it is quieter. Getting down to the cove itself is not for the faint hearted (i.e. us!), with a steep descent and a tatty old rope to hang on to.

To the north, Playa Illetes extends into the sea as a sand spit facing Ibiza. The water here is a beautiful, Maldives-esque turquoise. It’s beautiful but very popular, so arrive early to bag a place in the car park (when we left at 10.30am it was full with a queue to get in)! For decades, this has been the fashionable beach where yachts arrive from Ibiza, anchor offshore to dine at Juan et Andrea. We dined at this restaurant on a previous trip but found it to be over-crowded and over-priced, with the food nice but nothing special.

Sant Francesc is the island’s main town and worth a visit to wander around and have a change of scene from the beach. The pretty central square is anchored by a whitewashed church and is lively meeting place, with several busy cafés and restaurants. We didn’t have time to dine in the town, but would try to on a future trip.

There are plenty of small boutiques if, like us, you like a bit of browsing for clothes and gifts! Below we share some of the places we liked, most of which are along Carrer d’Isidor Macabich

• Numero 74 Atelier is a shop and also a creative workshop, with a sister shop in Saint Gertrudis, Ibiza. The space is light and inviting, filled with handmade textiles, clothing and accessories in soft, natural shades. It often hosts craft sessions and events, so it feels like part of the community as much as a boutique. A lovely stop for something original and beautifully made.
• Balafia brings together fashion, accessories and homeware with a strong design focus. The Sant Francesc store is airy and well-styled, with racks of linen clothing, woven bags and contemporary pieces.
• Finally, Casa Joana was a real find and David’s favourite place! It sells a range of curated menswear and accessories but also artwork. The shopfront is small but inside there is a whole series of rooms and an outdoor terrace area too.

The Hippie Market in La Mola is held twice a week on Wednesday and Sunday (4-10pm). The bohemian stalls are sell everything from hand-tooled leather sandals to ceramics and local art. During the busier season, music and food stalls add to the mix. It’s fairly small in size, but a fun way to spend an hour or so.

This was our favourite dining destination on our most recent trip. Located in the north of the island near the port, Can Carlitos is one of chef Nandu Jubany’s Formentera restaurants. The front of the restaurant gives no clue as to what hides behind, which is a superb setting looking out over the

sea. Call ahead when booking to see if you can to get one of the tables on the terrace, close to the sea. It was a spectacular spot to watch the sunset.

The setting is informal but smart, with tables arranged to make the most of sea views and the soft evening light. The décor is contemporary Mediterranean: white walls, wooden beams, splashes of colour from ceramics. The food here is bit more inventive, with a range of tapas including the most creatively presented and delicious patatas bravas we’ve ever had! There are also beautifully prepared rice dishes and fresh seafood done. There’s a lively energy to the place as evening sets in, with families, couples and groups all dining together.

10.7 is set right on a quiet stretch of Migjorn beach. From exterior is pared-back, with white wooden decking, simple director’s chairs, and the interior is minimal but stylish, with clean lines and unfussy décor that lets the view dominate. Food is classic Formentera fare, with a focus on fresh fish and seafood. The big pull here is the setting, right on the beach. Arrive in time for sundowners, chilling out in the outdoor seating area or on the restaurant terrace.

Es Códol Foradat also has a super setting, sitting directly on the sand of Playa Migjorn. It is another restaurant under the direction of Nandu Jubany. Décor is simple, with wooden tables and lighting that was a bit too bright for our liking. The menu leans traditional, with seafood rice and grilled fish. And while the atmosphere was lively and buzzy, with the place packed on midweek evening, the food was nothing special and expensive in our view.

Chez Gerdi is on the boardwalk in the Northern beach of Es Pujols and we had a fun evening there on our trip with our daughters a few years ago. The décor is eclectic, with patterned cushions, colourful fabrics and beach-house. And there’s more of a lively and fun vibe compared to other Formentera dining options. We would give it another go on our next trip.

Chiringuitos are Formentera’s relaxed beach bars — the places for long, simple lunches or an early evening drink with your feet in the sand. There are plenty scattered along Playa Migjorn, but here are our top three.

At the western end of Migjorn, close to Gecko Hotel, Karai has a buzzy, stylish feel. It attracts a chic crowd for sunset cocktails, with music, good service and a lively energy as the day winds down.

Closer to Calo des Mort, Bartolo is one of Migjorn’s most authentic spots. It has a laid-back, local atmosphere, simple food, lovely sea views and even a wishing tree by the entrance. It’s perfect as a pause on the walk to or from the cove.

Set roughly in the middle of Migjorn, KM11 is relaxed and welcoming. We stopped here more than once for a light lunch — Greek salad and empanadas were our go-to light lunch orders. The mix of travellers and hotel guests from nearby Teranka and Hostal La Savina makes it a sociable spot.

Formentera might be small but has a lot to offer if you’re looking for a laid-back, chilled out island with lovely beaches. It has a real sense of style in a rustic-chic sort of way, without being snobby. It has lots of buzzy places to eat and drink, without being loud and frenetic. Adding a few days here is a great complement to a trip to Ibiza. Maybe at the end of your holiday, so you can rest and recover from the late night revelry common on Formentera’s big sister island!