A trip to {THE LUBERON}:

Lavender fields, hilltop villages and timeless Provençal charm

The Luberon in Provence holds a special place in our hearts, as we had our own holiday home there for over a decade. Famous for its lavender fields that paint the landscape in shades of purple and its ancient hilltop villages with terracotta rooftops, the Luberon is one of the most beautiful areas of France.

We will take you through some of our favourite villages and places to eat. You can base yourself in one of the villages and explore the rest with short, scenic drives. Or chose to stay in a couple of places for a change of scene. Some key village markets to explore during your stay: Apt: Saturday; Gordes: Tuesday; Lourmarin: Friday; Bonnieux: Friday; Roussillon: Thursday. Always check before heading off to confirm these days are still up-to-date.

When to visit

We like to visit the Luberon in June or September, when the weather is warm and there are less crowds. We have had some memorable stays in December for Christmas and New Year celebrations, when the skies are often a crisp, bright blue and the winter sun casts a golden glow.

Saignon

Saignon is the village that holds our hearts most dearly, as it’s where we owned our house for ten years. Nestled high on a hill, it’s a small but charming village that feels untouched by time. The fountain in the main square, shaded by ancient plane trees, is the heart of Saignon. The village is intimate, so a few hours here is all you need to wander its winding streets, check out the few boutique and then sit down for a coffee, glass of rosé or a cold beer.

L’Auberge Du Presbytere has the perfect location right next to the fountain and the terrace there was our go-to place during the day (the terrace closes at night). However, changes of ownership seem to show up in negative feedback in more recent reviews.

Just down from the fountain on Rue Saint-Louis, Chez Christine is still going strong as a good spot for a coffee and pastry in Saignon. Theree is a nice little terrace where you can sip your espresso while gazing at the village’s stone facades.

Bonnieux

Bonnieux is a picture-perfect village that rises from the valley floor, offering panoramic views of the Luberon’s rolling landscape. It’s one of the larger villages in the region and provides a good blend of history and modern luxury, making it an ideal place to explore or stay.

Stay

Capelongue

Capelongue is more than just a place to stay, it’s like a little Provençal hamlet all of its own. There are extensive gardens with lavender fields, olive groves and a large pool that overlooks the valley. There are several restaurants on-site, including both fine dining and more relaxed options.

Dine

La Bastide (Capelongue)

We have celebrated special occasions over the years at the fine dining restaurant, La Bastide at Capelongue. With one Michelin star, this restaurant elevates Provençal cuisine to new heights, using the freshest local ingredients to create sophisticated dishes that celebrate the region’s culinary traditions. Each plate is an elegant work of art, all served in a refined setting with views over the village of Bonnieux.

La Bergerie (Capelongue)

For a more relaxed dining experience, La Bergerie offers rustic, wood-fired dishes in an expansive space where the fireplace is the centerpiece. The Mediterranean-inspired menu is built for sharing, with dishes like sea bream, lamb shank and pork belly capturing the hearty essence of Provençal cuisine. The setting is convivial, with both indoor and outdoor seating.

Images: https://www.beaumier.com/en/properties/capelongue-hotel/

Gordes

Gordes is often cited as one of the most beautiful hilltop villages in the Luberon, and it’s easy to see why. Its stone houses cascade down the hillside, crowned by a stunning chateau that dominates the skyline. The village has a timeless beauty that attracts artists, photographers and visitors from all over the world. In the main square, a beautiful fountain serves as a gathering point, surrounded by charming shops and cafés.

Stay

Airelles Gordes, La Bastide

We have long admired Airelles Gordes and hope to stay there one day! This luxury hotel sits like a crown jewel on the edge of the village, offering unparalleled views of the valley below. With its opulent interiors, sprawling terraces, and exquisite service, it embodies the height of Provençal elegance.

Image: https://airelles.com/en/destination/gordes-hotel

Café

Le Renaissance

In the heart of Gordes, Le Renaissance is a good spot for a leisurely coffee or an aperitif. Its terrace overlooks the village’s picturesque fountain and chateau, making it an ideal location for people-watching while soaking up the sun.

Roussillon

Roussillon is instantly recognizable by its dramatic red ochre cliffs and buildings. The walk up to the top of the village takes you up a winding street with galleries, shops and boutiques. Many of these are selling touristy stuff but others do have a nice offering of food and wine. Up at the top of the village, is a square which is a good spot to sit and have a coffee and maybe a light bite.

Dine

Cipressa (La Coquillade)

La Coquillade feels like a self-contained Provencal village, with gardens, a pool areas and several dining options. Cipressa offers informal dining under the shade of lemon trees, where you can enjoy Mediterranean cuisine with a view of the sparkling pool. The food here is simple yet flavourful.

Images: https://coquillade.fr

Avelan (La Coquillade)

For a more formal dining experience, Avelan is the gastronomic restaurant of La Coquillade. This fine dining restaurant offers a sophisticated menu that showcases the region’s best produce, prepared with meticulous care. The setting is elegant, making it perfect for a special occasion or a romantic evening.

Menerbes

Menerbes is another gem of the Luberon, known for its narrow streets and breathtaking views over the vineyards and rolling hills below. It’s famous for its truffle festival in December, which we have attended many times during our Christmas stays! The village comes alive with stalls selling fresh truffles, wines and local delicacies, making it a foodie’s paradise.

Dine

La Bastide de Marie

La Bastide de Marie is a picture-perfect hotel and restaurant set within lush vineyards. The terrace, draped in vines and framed by cypress trees, is a perfect place to enjoy classical Provençal cuisine.

Images: https://en.labastidedemarie.com

Ille Sur La Sorgues

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s specificity is twofold. First, there are the canals that wind through the village. Second, it is the home of one of France’s most famous antique markets, held every Sunday. The sheer variety on offer is astonishing: delicate 18th-century crystal chandeliers, gilded mirrors, rustic Provençal furniture, rare books and vintage textiles all jostle for attention.

Beyond the market, the narrow lanes are lined with antique shops that brim with curiosities year-round, where you can lose yourself exploring. After a morning of treasure hunting, settle in at one of the cafés that overlook the canals.

Lourmarin

Lourmarin gained international fame thanks to Peter Mayle’s beloved book A Year in Provence and it continues to enchant visitors. The village is lively, with a beautiful castle and bustling streets filled with boutiques, café and restaurants.

Dine

La Fontaine

In the heart of Lourmarin, La Fontaine offers a perfect spot for lunch on its charming terrace, ideally located for people-watching in the village centre. The menu offers solid bistro fare (no website, call +33 486399712).

Art Galleries

Le Hangar’t

Le Hangar’t is a more contemporary gallery with a vibrant collection of modern paintings, sculptures and unique artistic pieces. The gallery owner creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere. We’ve personally purchased a couple of striking paintings here from artist Didier Delgado, celebrated for his unique use of the spines of vinyl records as the canvas for his creations.

Galerie Isirdi

Lourmarin is known for its art scene, and Galerie Isirdi is one of the best places to purchase illustrated watercolors that capture the beauty of the Luberon. We have one at home, a constant reminder of the magic of Provence.

Why a trip to the Luberon?

A trip to the Luberon is an immersion into the heart of Provence’s most idyllic landscapes. From hilltop villages and lavender fields to intimate restaurants and luxurious retreats, the Luberon offers a perfect blend of relaxation, culture and gastronomic delight.