Paris has a special place in our hearts as it’s the hometown of Anne-Marie and also a city where we lived together for eight years, during which time our eldest daughter Jessica was born. It retains an in incredible appeal as a destination for travellers, only enhanced by the Netflix series Emily in Paris!
There are countless things to see and do in Paris amongst the 20 “arrondissements”, which spiral out clockwise from the 1st arrondissement in the centre. Here, we have avoid talking about the obvious attractions: the Eiffel Tower, les Champs Elysees, the Louvre and the like. Instead, we focus on three of Anne-Marie’s favourite areas, including one emerging district which is a little bit off the usual tourist track called Le Sentier. We share her top insider tips on the places to see and things to do.
Paris is a small city and incredibly easy to navigate. So, you could base yourself in one of these areas and see all of Paris. Or alternatively you could do a two-area stay for example. It’s a city that’s wonderful to visit at any time of the year, being particularly pretty in spring or autumn. If you avoid the school holidays, you have a chance of city with less crowds.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Sevres Babylone
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th arrondissement or 6ième in French) and nearby Sèvres-Babylone (7ième ) are both beautiful, historical areas that are also lively centres of Parisian life today. They are located in the on the southern bank of the Seine, or “Le Rive Gauche” (Left Bank) as Parisians call it. These areas are perfect for taking part in an activity the French call “flâner”. This is the art of simply wandering, exploring and observing life without a specific purpose or destination, slowing down to pay attention to the small details, ideally over a coffee or a glass of wine!
Stay
Le Montalembert
Le Montalembert is a five-star boutique hotel with only 50 rooms ideally placed for exploring Saint-Germain. The hotel marries classic Parisian elegance with contemporary design, with natural woods and muted. The more expensive rooms have beautiful views of the Paris rooftops.
The small but perfectly formed terrace is an intimate, secluded spot for dining al fresco or enjoying an evening drink. Like all hotels in Paris, staying here is not cheap, with room rates from £600, and we have only had one stay here.
Images: https://www.hotelmontalembert-paris.com
La Belle Juliette
La Belle Juliette is a smaller, cosier four-star boutique bolt-hole on Rue du Cherche-Midi where we have stayed several times. The rooms are small but prettily decorated. And with prices from £250 in low season, it’s a more affordable option.
The hotel inspired by the life of Juliette Récamier, a 19th-century French socialite renowned for her grace and charm. The hotel combines vintage Parisian glamor and a modern twist, with bold colours, rich textiles and artistic décor. There is a bar and small restaurant a nice terrace for breakfast when the weather permits. There is also a bijou spa and pool in the basement.
Image: https://www.hotel-belle-juliette-paris.com
Stroll and See: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
These strolls have a suggested route to follow, but part of the fun of Paris is being spontaneous and following your nose when you see (or smell) something which grabs your attention.
In Paris, sitting at a café and watching the world go by is more than a stop for refreshment, it’s a ritual in its own right. Outdoor terrace seating in Paris is arranged with all chairs facing outwards, perfectly positioned for people-watching. Here, Anne-Marie shares some of her favourite cafés to stop off at along these walking routes.
Jardin du Luxembourg
Our stroll starts on this this expansive garden is where Parisians go to relax. After a wander through the gardens, take a seat in one of the iconic green chairs placed around the fountains. Bring a book or people-watch from a shaded corner, soaking up the tranquil beauty of Paris.
Place Saint-Sulpice
A short walk north takes you to this square that has an old-world charm and timeless appeal. The twin towers of the imposing Saint-Sulpice Church stand majestically above the square and in the centre is an ornate fountain. The square is framed by historic buildings with shutters, wrought-iron balconies and stone facades.
Overlooking Place Saint-Sulpice, at Café de Mairie you can sit outside under the trees or enjoy a cozy spot indoors. It’s a nice place to unwind after visiting the church and the square.
Rue Bonaparte
To head away from Saint-Sulpice, take Rue Bonaparte, a quintessential Parisian street lined with elegant boutiques, antique shops and galleries. It leads you up to the Boulevard Saint Germain, where you’ll find two of the most famous cafés in Paris.
Les Deux Magots is a historic and iconic café and Anne-Marie’s favourite spot when she visits. It has ties to Hemingway, Picasso and other artistic legends. A table on the terrace is a prime spot for people watching. The reputation does mean a visit here comes with a price tag!
Café de Flore is another iconic Parisian café and arch rival of Les Deux Maggots. Flore exudes timeless style, with leather seats, mirrored walls and brass fittings recalling an era when Sartre and de Beauvoir held court here. It’s a place for morning espresso, quiet reading and people-watching.
An inside tip is to stop off at the nearby Monoprix (52 Rue de Rennes), the Saint Germain outpost of a French chain that sells a wide range of products, including food, fashion and beauty. It’s where Anne-Maire stocks up on good quality and affordable jumpers!
At the top of Rue Bonaparte you arrive at Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés on Le Boulevard Saint Germain. At this neighbourhood landmark where you can pause and take in the classic Parisian architecture around you.
From l’Église Saint-Germain, walk up Rue Bonaparte for a couple of hundred metres to the junction with Rue de L’Abbaye. At this corner, you’ll find Le Bonaparte (42 Rue Bonaparte), a classic café that is a bit more relaxed than its famous neighbours.
If, like us, you’re into art and design then pop into La Hune Yellow Corner at Nø 16, a beautiful book shop and gallery.
Passage Saint-André des Arts
Walking east along Rue de L’Abbaye, taking a stop-off at Place de Furstemberg. This is one of the most romantic squares in Paris, with elegant lampposts and clusters of trees around the centre. On this square, pop into the small but perfectly formed Compaigne des Poivres, a tiny shop selling the most amazing range of different peppers! The pepper corns are displayed in the store under glass bell-shaped vases that you lift to smell the fragrance.
Keep walking east down Rue de L’Abbaye and then onto Rue de Bucci to the entrance of Le Cour du Commerce Saint-André des Arts. This is a covered pedestrian passageway filled with quirky shops, artisan boutiques and the ambiance of old Paris. At the Boulevard Saint Germain end is Maison Brémond 1830, a gourmet grocery boutique and great place for gift buying.
Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine
From Passage Saint-André des Arts, walk back west along the Rue de Buci, known for its lively, vibrant atmosphere and market stalls. When you reach the junction with Rue de Seine, right on the corner you’ll find the Bar du Marché. Bustling and lively at any time of the day, it’s is perfect for lunch or just for a drink. The atmosphere is warm and friendly, with tables and colourful red chairs spilling out onto the sidewalk.
Turn right here to head north on Rue de Seine, wandering past galleries, antique shops and chic boutiques. On the way up at nº 43 is one of favourite café spots for lunch, La Palette. We started going here when we first lived together in Paris in the 1990s!. It has nice little terrace and inside, as the name suggests, it has lots of colour paint palettes.
On the way up Rue de Seine, hang a left into the narrow street Rue des Beaux-Arts, that has a quiet charm with art galleries and small shops. L’Hotel is a small, beautiful, classic hotel famed for hosting Oscar Wilde. The bar is chic and intimate, ideal for a quiet, luxurious drink.
Pont des Arts
This stroll ends at Pont des Arts, a picturesque pedestrian bridge offering spectacular views over the Seine, particularly when you catch the golden light on the beautiful buildings.
Cross over the bridge and you’re in the gardens of the Louvre. Or, head east along the les quais next to the Seine towards Le Musée d’Orsay, until you get to the Rue du Bac which is the start of our second Stroll & See suggestion in this area.
Stroll and See: Sevres Babylone
This is the second stroll in this part of Paris. It has some great shopping spots, from small boutiques to the Hermès flagship store. There are also, of course, lots of cafés to stop off at, including one that makes a legendary croque monsieur not to be missed!
Rue du Bac
Rue du Bac is a long street that starts at the Seine near Le Musée d’Orsay. It is a refined shopping street and home to artisanal shops, luxury boutiques and gourmet food stores. At the southern end of the street is an outpost of Des Gâteaux et du Pain (Nº 89), one of Anne-Marie’s favourite places for beautiful pastries. Calorie counting is not an easy thing to do on a trip to Paris, we warn you!
Just nearby on Boulevard Raspail is the Paris outpost of David’s favourite store, Paul Smith!
Rue de Grenelle
Rue de Grenelle crosses Rue du Bac about half way down it, and has mix of upscale boutiques, small design stores and trendy fashion outlets, eels effortlessly chic. It’s a good spot for discovering lesser-known Parisian brands. It also has one of the oldest and most photogenic cheese shops in Paris, Barthélémy (Nº 51)
La Trésorerie at Nº 51 is a lovely homeware shop and entering feels like stepping into a perfectly curated Parisian home! The shop celebrates everyday living as an art form, with shelves lined with hand-thrown ceramics, linen textiles and beautifully crafted household pieces.
Rue de Sèvres
At the bottom of Rue du Bac you arrive at Rue de Sèvres, full of quintessential Parisian beauty with stone buildings and elegant wrought-iron balconies.
Le Bon Marché (nº 24) is the epitome of Parisian elegance, offering both a high-end shopping experience and an architectural sight. Its food hall, La Grande Épicerie de Paris, is a gastronomic paradise where you can explore fine French delicacies and gourmet treats.
The Hermès store (nº 17) is a visual masterpiece with stunning wooden structures housing the beautifully crafted range of clothes and homeware. Wandering through the vast, high ceilinged store is an experience, even if you might not buy anything! There’s also a bookshop and café.
The nearby Hôtel Lutetia (45 Bd Raspail) is a sophisticated stop for a coffee or pre-dinner drink.
La Maison du Chocolat (Nº 19) near the Hermès store offers has beautifully crafted chocolate treats.
Carry on up Rue de Sèvres and you’ll find Bar de la Croix Rouge, just off the road at 2 Pl. Michel Debré. This is another classic Parisian café, with a distinctive red awning and iconic corner location, Inside, the ambiance is intimate, with wooden panelling, cozy banquettes and vintage mirrors.
Rue du Cherche Midi
Walking up Rue du Cherche Midi, you’ll each Rue du Cherhe Midi. It has a charming mix of tradition and modernity, with high-end fashion, contemporary home décor shops and, of course, cafés to try! Walk back south passing the legendary bakery Poilâne (Nº 8), famous for its sourdough loaf. Le Nemrod at Nº 51 is a classic French bistro with a cozy atmosphere and our top tip for one of the best croque-monsieurs in Paris!
Do
Musée d’Orsay
Musée d’Orsay is is a converted, Beaux-Arts train station is a beautiful building worth a trip for the architecture and alone with its huge vaulted glass ceiling. Standing under the giant clock, you get a breathtaking view of Paris. The museum itself holds some of the world’s best Impressionist and post-Impressionist art, including masterpieces by Monet, Renoir, and Van Gogh.
Musée Rodin
Musée Rodin is housed in an elegant, 18th-century building and has the special feature of a beautiful garden. You can wander and see some of Rodin’s masterpieces in a serene, open-air setting. It’s a great spot to take in some art and also have a peaceful break.
Le Marais
Le Marais is a mix of historical elegance and modern vibrancy, embodying both the charm of old Paris and the creative pulse of the city’s modern scene. Here, we are in the 3ième and 4ième arrondissements, north of the Seine on le rive droite.
Stroll & See
Rue des Francs-Bourgeois
We begin our stroll at the start of Rue des Francs Bourgeois, with Les Jardins des Archives Nationales at nº 60 being a nearby landmark. Rue des Francs Bourgeois is a vibrant shopping street with an eclectic mix of high-end boutiques, concept stores and classic French brands. Popular French brands like Sandro, Maje and Comptoir des Cotonniers sit alongside independent designers. With its many cafes and historical buildings, it’s a picturesque spot to spend a leisurely afternoon.
The road leads from west to east past Le Musée Carnavalet, all the way to Place des Vosges.
Rue Vieille du Temple
This is another bustling street that captures the energy of Le Marais, with chic boutiques, artisanal food shops and cafés. It runs crosses Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, running roughly north to south. Head south and you will find at nº 30 a small but perfectly formed café Au Petit Fer à Cheval. This quintessential Parisian café has a cozy, vintage charm and a lovely little terrace if you are lucky to bag a table. Named after its horseshoe-shaped bar, this café has by mirrors, dark wood and warm lighting. The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming, perfect for a casual drink after a day exploring the Marais. Next door at number 28 is a sister café with a bigger terrace, Les Philosophes. The nearby Rue du Trésor is a pretty pedestrian street.
For tea lovers, Mariage Frères is is a must-visit! It is nearby, just off Rue Vieille du Temple at 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg. This historic tea house offers an incredible selection of high-quality teas from around the world. It also has a charming tearoom with old-world décor if you want to stop and soak up the atmosphere.
Head back up to Rue des Francs Bourgeois to continue our walk. After a couple of minutes at nº 35-37 you’ll find the Paris outpost of Dover Street Market, the hit shopping collective. Inside you’ll find the Rose Bakery which is a nice spot for a coffee, especially the little terrace.
Rue du Rosiers
Carry on walking down Rue des Francs Bourgeois until you get to Rue Pavée. Turn right to get to Rue des Rosiers, the heart of the historic Jewish Quarter. It is famous for its array of kosher bakeries, falafel shops and Jewish delicatessens. The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, with colourful storefronts and a delicious aroma of baked goods filling the air.
Pause for a moment in the Jardin des Rosiers. This is a pretty spot, but you’ll also find a memorial dedicated to the troubled past of Paris, when Jewish children of the fourth arrondissement were arrested and handed over to the Nazis for deportation.
Head back up Rue Pavée. Just after turning right to rejoin Rue des Francs Bourgeois you’ll arrive at Le Musée Carnavalet, the museum of Paris (see Do section later). It also has (yet another!) café with a lovely terrace called Joli.
Merci Concept Store
Walk north from Place des Vosges along Boulevard Beaumarchais to explore the Merci concept store. This stylish, multi-story industrial-chic space offers a carefully curated selection of clothing, homeware and accessories, mixing local designers with international brands.
The store has expanded on either side to including two cafés. On the left side is the cosy Le Used Book Café. On the other side is the more chic, contemporary take on the Parisian café, Merci x Noir. The centrepiece is a striking, beautifully crafted horseshoe-shaped counter.
Place des Vosges
At the of eastern end of Rue des Francs-Bourgeois awaits Le Place des Vosges. This is one of the oldest and most beautiful squares in Paris, known for its symmetry and the red-brick arcades that you wander under. In the centre is a manicured garden and a lovely fountain, a popular spot for sitting in the sun and maybe having an informal lunch.
In the arcades of Place des Vosges, Carette is the café to search out if you are a chocolate lover! It is famous for its luxurious hot chocolate, with the rich, velvety drink served in elegantly crafted porcelain. You can order to take away, or sit in to enjoy the plush seating, Art Deco interiors and picturesque view of the square.
Do
Musée Picasso
Musée Picasso is just off Rue Vieille du Temple and offers a comprehensive look at the artist’s life and work. The museum is in L’hôtel Salé one of the grandest hôtels Parisiens of the 17th century. The beautiful architecture and serene courtyard garden make it a venue worth visiting in its own right, beyond the extensive art collection.
Marché des Enfants Rouges
At few minutes walk from the northern end of Rue Vieille du Temple on Rue de Bretagne is Le Marché des Enfants Rouges. Dating back to 1615, this is the oldest covered market in Paris and a haven for food lovers. This lively market features vendors selling fresh produce, gourmet ingredients and international cuisine. It’s a popular lunch spot, with food stalls offering everything from Moroccan tagines and Japanese bento boxes to classic French crêpes.
Musée Carnavalet
The recently renovated Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the history of Paris. The museum’s extensive collection includes paintings, artifacts and historical memorabilia that tell the story of Paris from ancient times to the present day. Each room is beautifully designed, often reflecting the historical period it represents.
Dine
Restaurant Anne, Hotel Le Pavillon de la Reine
Nestled in the iconic Place des Vosges, Restaurant Anne is a Michelin-starred, fine dining restaurant inside the 5* Hotel Le Pavillon de la Reine, suitable for a special occasion The hotel blends the history of 17th-century Paris with contemporary design and has a shaded garden tucked within a secluded courtyard. They also do an extensive (but expensive!) slap-up brunch at the weekend.
Le Sentier
Le Sentier, in Paris’s 2ième arrondissement on le rive droite, is a district that embodies the pulse of Parisian creativity. Once the centre of the city’s textile industry, it’s now a bustling, modern neighbourhood where tech startups, trendy boutiques, artisanal food shops and stylish cafes thrive alongside each other. The area is lively and cosmopolitan, with a blend of historic buildings and contemporary design.
Stay
Hoxton Hotel
Located in a historic 18th-century building on Rue du Sentier, the Hoxton Parisian elegance with contemporary cool. Inside, the decor is a stylish mix of vintage and modern, with mid-century furnishings, bold colours and eclectic artwork. The lobby is lively, filled with locals and travellers enjoying a coffee.
The hotel also has a cozy cocktail bar, Jacques’ Bar, which has an intimate, retro vibe and serves inventive cocktails.
Image: https://thehoxton.com/paris
Pulitzer Paris
Just a five-minute walk from Le Sentier on the buzzy Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, the Pulitzer is our new favourite boutique Parisian bolthole. It is a quiet, elegant retreat with a sleek, boutique style, combining Scandinavian-inspired minimalism with touches of Parisian chic.
The rooms have warm lighting, plush bedding and contemporary furnishings, with the more expensive rooms have views of the street. It has some of the most impressive sound-proofing of any hotel we’ve stayed in!
The stylish café serves a lovely, extensive buffet breakfast and is also a good spot for pre-dinner cocktails.
Dine
Frenchie Restaurant
Located on Rue du Nil, Frenchie is one of our favourite fine dining spots in Paris and has become a stand-out example of creative, modern French cuisine. The restaurant, run by chef Gregory Marchand, offers an intimate yet vibrant ambiance, with exposed brick walls and warm lighting. The menu changes seasonally, emphasizing fresh, local ingredients with a twist. Each dish is beautifully presented, balancing classic French techniques with innovative flavours and textures. They also have a buzzy, busy little wine bar opposite for pre-dinner drinks.
Make a reservation well in advance, as this small, stylish restaurant is highly sought after by locals and travellers alike.
Images: http://www.frenchie-ruedunil.com
Bambou Restaurant
Bambou is is stylish Asian restaurant with a contemporary, industrial deign aesthetic and a young, fashionable crowd. The outdoor terrace is like an oasis in the middle of Paris, with tropical plants and bamboo screens. The menu features traditional Thai flavours presented with elegance, including Asian-inspired cocktails and fragrant curries.
Vaudeville
Vaudeville is a real classic, Art Déco Parisian brasserie on Rue Vivienne, just outside Le Sentier, where a couple of Parisian friends too us. It was packed and buzzing on a Tuesday evening, serving up traditional French fare such as the sole meunière we dined on.
Shop
Plaq Chocolat (Rue du Nil)
Plaq Chocolat is a paradise for chocolate lovers, located on the charming Rue du Nil. This artisanal chocolate shop is known for its dedication to pure, high-quality chocolate crafted from bean to bar. Inside, the decor is minimalist and modern, allowing the chocolate itself to take centre stage.
Terroirs d'Avenir Boulangerie-Pâtisserie and Crèmerie (Rue du Nil)
Also on Rue du Nil, Boulangerie-Pâtisserie du Terroirs d’Avenir is a charming boulangerie and pâtisserie known for its commitment to locally sourced, organic ingredients. The scent of freshly baked bread and pastries greets you as you step inside, where rustic wooden shelves are filled with artisan breads, flaky croissants and delicate pastries.
On the same street and also run by Terroirs d’Avenir is the Crèmerie cheese shop, a true treasure chest for carefully sourced cheese and dairy products purchased directly from producers who prioritize animal welfare.
L’Appartement Sézane (Rue Saint-Fiacre)
L’Appartement Sézane is a beautifully curated boutique that feels more like a chic Parisian apartment than a traditional store. Sézane is a one-stop-shop for all things evoking Parisian chic. There is a range of stylish women’s clothing, accessories and shoes plus a selection of homeware and beauty products. The place is so popular that there is normally a queue of people outside!
The Socialite Family (Rue Saint-Fiacr)
Located near L’Appartement Sézane, The Socialite Family is a stylish concept store that specializes in high-end home decor with a French flair. The space showcase beautiful, contemporary furniture, lighting and accessories that blend modern design with vintage-inspired details.
Wilo Grove
Wilo Grove is a lovely art shop just outside Le Sentier on rue Montmartre. The focus is on friendly service with none of the snobbery of a typical Parisian gallery.
Montmartre
A wander round the hilltop neighbourhood of Montmartre is a lovely way to spend a morning or afternoon. There’s far more here than the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. It has very much the feel of a village, with cobbled streets, ivy-clad buildings and buzzy squares. There are plenty of cafés and restaurants to stop off on the way as you walk around, ending with a panoramic view of Paris.
Rue des Abbesses
Start at Metro Abbesses. Have a quick look at the nearby “I Love You Wall”. Walk east down the pretty cobbled Rue des Abbesses. Stopping at the corner of Rue André Antoine, looking down the steps at the pretty view (below middle). Opposite is another photogenic spot, Le Passage de Abbesses (below right).
We stopped for lunch at Café Tabac, just off the Rue des Abbesses. It’s a cut Italian-style espresso bar with a lovely little terrace. They do a top toasted sandwich!
Rue Lepic to La Maison Rose
Carry on down till the Rue des Abbesses forks into Rue Lepic, another pretty cobbled street (below left). We cut up Rue Tholozé to rejoin Rue Lepic (below middle and right). There’s an Italian restaurant here with a nice terrace called Tentazioni.
Turn right, walk a bit and turn left into Rue Girardon to see Le Moulin de la Galette. This perfectly preserved windmill was built in the 17th century and is now a restaurant. A bit further on is the ivy-covered Théâtre Lepic. Carry on along Rue Girardon, stopping off at Les 5 Marches, https://www.5marches-montmartre.com, a lovely café with a little terrace where we had a cup of tea and a nice slice of cake.
Walk on from the café, and Rue Girardon curves round and becomes Rue de l’Abreuvoir. Here, you have a lovely view up the hill towards the Sacre Coeur.
At the top of the cobbled street is the Instagram-tastic café La Maison Rose.
Rue de Saules and the vineyards
A short walk down takes you to the corner of Rue de Saules and Rue Saint-Rustique, where there are often musicians playing. A bit further east is Place du Tertre, which is lively and has good views of the Sacré-Coeur but is now very touristy. It’s where a lot of the caricaturists hang out if you’re interested in getting a caricature done.
Head back up Rue de Saules to see Les Vignes de Montmartre, the city’s last working vineyard. Nearby, at the corner with Rue Saint-Vincent, is the Cabaret Au Lapin Agile, in a 19th-century stone house that is now a cabaret venue.
Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet and the Sacré-Coeur
Carry on east along Rue Saint-Vincent to Le Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet. From this scenic, terraced garden, you have a great view of the Sacré-Coeur.
Walk around the majestic Sacré-Coeur, gleaming white against the sky. You’ll reach a viewpoint where you can admire panoramic views across the Paris rooftops to the Eiffel Tower.