Our trip to {THE SOUTHWEST COAST of FRANCE}:

Cap Ferret is a summer destination with a distinctly chic and youthful feel. It is located on a narrow headland that separates the wild Atlantic from the tranquil Arcachon Bay. The pace is laid-back, and like on the Île de Ré, biking is the way to get around. The town’s lively market is an essential stop, with colourful stalls selling everything from fresh produce to chic beachwear. In the evenings, young Parisians and families gather at bustling restaurants and beach bars, adding to the town’s stylish and animated atmosphere.

One of the few boutique hotels in Cap Ferret, Côté Sable is located right on the water and just steps from the heart of town. The rooms are bright and modern, with the best ones having large windows offering views of the ocean. The terrace is good spot for dining, having a quiet morning coffee or sipping rosé in the afternoon sun.

During a previous visit, we stayed at La Maison du Bassin, a charming hotel with a nautical theme located a bit further from the centre of town. The hotel has a cozy, maritime atmosphere, with weathered wooden floors and antique décor. Its proximity to the famous oyster shacks is a plus.

Perched dramatically atop the Dune du Pilat across the bay from the main town, La Co(o)rniche is the epitome of French coastal luxury. Designed by the Philippe Starck, offers jaw-dropping views of the ocean, the dune and the pine forests below. The vibe here is cool, with days spent lounging by the infinity pool and then sipping cocktails as the sun sets over the Atlantic. It needs a splurge to stay here, and we booked a room to end a previous trip on a high to celebrate a special occasion.

For most visitors, renting a house is the way to go, especially if planning to stay for a longer stretch. Many families rent homes for the entire month of August, settling into the slower rhythm of life by the beach.

Biking to the beaches is one of the simple joys of a stay in Cap Ferret. The ocean side offers vast stretches of sand and rolling waves perfect for surfers, while the bay side is quieter, with calmer waters.

We spent most of our time at Plage de l’Océan, a short bike ride from town. A little shack sells drinks and sandwiches and other simple fare. Another day, we took a longer, scenic bike ride through the pine forests to Le Plage Du Truc Vert. For something more family-friendly, Plage du Centre is on the bay side, close to the centre of town and offers calm waters and soft sand, ideal for children.

The market in Cap Ferret is a highlight of any visit. It’s lively, colourful and buzzing with energy. You’ll find everything from fresh fish and local cheeses to chic summer dresses and handcrafted jewellery. The food stalls are a feast for the senses, while the sociable atmosphere invites you to sit down at one of the market bars for a glass of wine or a cold beer.

In the Bassin d’Arcachon opposite the main town, Dune du Pilat is a natural wonder. It’s the tallest sand dune in Europe and climbing to the top rewards you with spectacular views of the ocean and a pine forest.

A visit to the Cap Ferret Lighthouse is a great way to spend a cloudy or rainy afternoon. Climbing the 258 steps to the top rewards you with panoramic views of the peninsula.

Chez Hortense is a Cap Ferret institution, known for its legendary moules frites served right on the waterfront. Calling to book ahead is essential as this spot fills up fast. Once you’re seated with a plate of perfectly cooked mussels and a view of the bay, you’ll know why it’s so popular. The atmosphere is rustic yet lively, with families and friends gathered to enjoy some of the freshest seafood on the coast.

Just a 10-minute walk from Côté Sable, Pinasse Café is another great spot for a seaside meal. Try to get a table by the water for the best experience. As in most places here, the focus is on fresh fish and seafood, served perfectly.

La Maison du Bassin mentioned earlier is another enjoyable place we like to dine. It has an intimate atmosphere with candlelit tables and an air of old-world charm. Try to book ahead to get a table on the terrace. The bar here is equally lively, drawing both locals and visitors for an evening of cocktails and conversation.

For a more vibrant, youthful experience, Sailfish is the place to be and be seen. After dinner, it transforms into a bonkers nightclub, with dancing on the tables and a crowd that keeps the party going into the early hours. It’s noisy, busy and full of energy, perfect if you have a young gang with you, or at least people who are young at heart!

Frédélian is a lively spot is perfect for an afternoon coffee or early evening drinks, famous for its waffles and with a buzzy vibe.

Le Vintage Ferret is a cool, laid-back spot for an evening drink, especially on the terrace with its wooden benches and colourful cushions. It is located on the main strip, Le Boulevard de la Plage (no website, Instagram: levintageferret).

On the Arcachon Bay side of Cap Ferret, you’ll find quintessential oyster shacks, tucked right on the water’s edge. These charming, rustic spots are a no-frills but authentic venue to enjoy the freshest oysters paired with a simple glass of chilled white wine or water.

Sorbet d’Amour is an ice cream institution that has people queuing at all hours of the day. You can’t miss the vibrant, bright orange awning on Le Boulevard de la Plage.

Strolling along Boulevard de la Plage is a quintessential Cap Ferret experience, from Frédélian down to Pinasse Café, the streets are lined with chic boutiques that tempt at every turn. Jane de Boy is a high-end concept store with carefully curated fashion, accessories and homeware. For something edgier, Deus Ex Machina offers surf-inspired clothing and gear, blending beach culture with cutting-edge design.

A couple of hours drive south took us to Hossegor,  town less known to British visitors but adored by French surfers and beachgoers. It has a unique position with the ocean on one side offering world-class waves, while the calm lake side is perfect for relaxing walks and paddleboarding. The town has a laid-back, surf vibe and is more down-to-earth than Cap Ferret.

We had long been eyeing Hortensias du Lac, a stunning lakeside hotel blending surf chic with refined luxury. Part of the Fontenille group, the hotel offers the ultimate retreat, with a serene pool overlooking the lake, complimentary morning yoga, and two restaurants: one fine dining, the other more relaxed.

The lounge area and bedrooms are light and breezy, with natural wood tones and soft linens that echo the surrounding landscape. There’s also a spa, though bookings fill up fast, and a small gym for fitness enthusiasts.

Biking through the pine-scented paths to the beach is a must in Hossegor. La Gravière is the main beach we visited, a short ride from town and known for its big waves and surf culture. There’s a beach bar, Cabane De La Gravière, where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat after a surf session—just be sure to call ahead and book during peak season (no website, call +33 7 61 70 18 07 and check out their Facebook page here )

A bit further out is Les Estagnots, another fabulous surf beach with a cool café La Cabane des Estagnots which is the seaside outpost of the Hortensia du Lac  It was a perfect spot for a casual lunch.

The fine dining restaurant at Hortensia du Lac has sleek wood-panelled dining room that extends to a terrace shaded by sails. It’s the perfect setting for Chef Philippe Moreno’s seasonal seafood dishes, with beautifully plated fish and local specialties.

For something more casual, the Lake Beach House at Hortensia du Lac offers laid-back dining on the lakeside, with a menu of fresh salads, platters, and seafood. It’s a perfect spot for a light lunch or an evening aperitif as the sun sets over the lake, casting a golden glow on the water.

Monsieur Mouette is a buzzy restaurant with a stunning view of the water. The menu is eclectic, with Middle Eastern influences that add an exciting twist to the usual seafood fare. The vibe is vibrant and relaxed, with locals and visitors mingling.

Right on the lakeside, Le Bistro Balnéaire was another lively spot with a buzzy, busy terrace. The food was fine, with seafood and fresh fish the focus, though not as creative as Monsieur Mouette.

For a change from seafood, Amore is a lively Italian restaurant, ggo for a casual evening when you’re craving Italian comfort food like pizza and pasta as a change to fish and seafood!

When it comes to brunch in Hossegor, Pacific Coast Café  is a bright, airy space serving up everything from avocado toast to fresh acai bowls, all with a laid-back, West Coast-inspired vibe.

Right on the lake, Chez Loulou was another good breakfast spot we tried, specializing in fresh and fruity breakfast bowls.

For a sweet treat, Glaces Romane in town was the best ice cream we found, though it doesn’t quite match the standout flavours of Sorbet d’Amour in Cap Ferret.

Hossegor’s shops offer a decent selection, though the vibe is more mainstream than the chic boutiques of Cap Ferret. You’ll find surf shops, casual clothing stores and beach gear. It’s less about fashion and more about easy, effortless style that fits well with Hossegor’s relaxed lifestyle.

We ventured further south to end our trip in Biarritz, a city where old-world elegance meets a laid-back, youthful vibe. Its beaches are a playground for surfers, and the Spanish influence is felt throughout, with lively tapas bars on bustling streets. The elegant Belle Époque architecture of the centre creates an interesting contrast with the surf culture the city is famous for.

Set atop a hill, overlooking Biarritz with panoramic ocean views, Regina Experimental is a masterclass in quirky luxury. This grand hotel, once a symbol of classic elegance, has been transformed by the bold, creative team at the Experimental Group into a vibrant, colourful space with an eclectic mix of styles.

The décor is playful yet refined, blending retro touches with contemporary chic. The pool area is a particular highlight, offering a peaceful retreat with stunning views.

Biarritz is synonymous with beaches. Le Grande Plage is the star of the show is a stretch of golden sand framed by the elegant cityscape, perfect for sunbathing, people-watching and the famous Atlantic waves, making it a favourite spot for surfers.

Biarritz also has top-class golf courses with spectacular views. We had a family golf lesson at the club near the hotel, which was a fun morning though the setting was more beautiful than our golf swings!

Frenchie at Regina Experimental is the Biarritz outpost of one of our favourite Paris restaurants. The modern French cuisine with its creative twists delivered one of the best meals of our trip, all served in a stylish setting. It’s worth the trek up the hill even if you’re not staying at the hotel!

The lively energy of Les Contrebandiers is a bustling tapas bar serving an array of small plates bursting with flavour, situated in the centre of town near Les Halles. There’s no booking here, so turn up early to add your name to the waiting list and grab a drink while you wait.

La Petite Plage has a chic beach club vibe overlooking the ocean. The menu has a bit more creative flair than the standard seafood offer and a good range of cocktails too.

Restaurant Jardin Silhouette is a hidden gem that we stumbled on whilst wandering round town. It has a beautiful garden that hosts jazz concerts in the summer, and we went there for after-dinner drinks.  It’s also a good hotel option for those seeking something smaller and more intimate, right in the heart of town.

Located next to the iconic Biarritz lighthouse, Pavillon du Phare is a lively outdoor café that offers great views over the coastline (no website, Facebook page here)

Eden Rock Café is a laid-back café and a great spot for drinks right on the ocean’s edge, perched above the crashing waves.

The Halles de Biarritz is a bustling food market filled with the vibrant colours and smells of local produce, artisanal cheeses and fresh seafood. Strolling through the market, you can grab a bite to eat from one of the many stands or stock up on gourmet goods to enjoy later.

For those who love shopping, Avenue de l’Impératrice is an elegant avenue lined with chic boutiques, offering everything from high-end fashion to stylish home décor. A personal favourite was Maison Sarah Lavoine an interior design paradise offering a curated range of furniture and homeware.

The Southwest Coast of France is a seaside holiday that delivers a whole range of experiences, from the chic beach scene of Cap Ferret to lakeside relaxation in Hossegor and the Spanish-influenced vibrancy of Biarritz. It perhaps less sophisticated than the South of France which has tended to be our go-too coastal destination when holidaying in France, but it more than makes up for this with its laid-back, chilled out charm.