Our week in {PUGLIA}:

Hilltop towns, seaside chilling and rural charm

Puglia, Italy’s enchanting southern region, is a land of sun-soaked beaches, olive groves and historic whitewashed towns. Our week-long adventure here had two parts: the northern half of Puglia near the idyllic hilltop town of Ostuni and then the southern region around the baroque beauty of Lecce. Each area offered its own flavour of Puglian life, from beach clubs to ancient villages.

Late spring to early summer is truly an ideal time to experience Puglia: a good chance of sunny days for beach outings, town explorations and leisurely lunches al fresco, without the bustling throngs of high season.

The North

Stay

Masseria Torre Maizza

A mini-resort that has become a part of the prestigious Rocco Forte Collection, Masseria Torre Maizza offers a luxurious escape in the heart of Puglia’s countryside. Surrounded by olive groves and designed as a sophisticated sanctuary, the masseria exudes elegance at every turn. Forte have upgraded the resort, bringing a more polished elegance to the property, but this has also raised prices!

Our suite was tastefully decorated, with whitewashed walls, natural stone floors, soft fabrics and stylish touches of contemporary Italian design. The view from our private terrace stretched out over the estate, capturing the beauty of Puglia’s pastoral landscape.

The pool area is equally enchanting, a serene oasis framed by trees and columns, offering plenty of sun-dappled spaces to unwind.

Beach

Coccaro Beach Club

Coccaro Beach Club was the beach club we used for our northern Puglia stay. The vibe is chic yet laid-back, a perfect spot to spend a leisurely day by the sea.

Image: https://www.coccarobeachclub.it/en/home/

Lido Bambù Beach Club

The Lido Bambù Beach Club is for exclusive use by guests of Masseria Torre Maizza, a shuttle ride away from the hotel. It looks like a classy, upscale club though we have not tried it yet, with it opening since our last visit.

Image: https://www.roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/masseria-torre-maizza/dining/lido-bambu/

Dine

Masseria Torre Maizza

The hotel’s main restaurant features a menu that celebrates local flavours with a sophisticated twist, including handmade pastas and freshly caught seafood. We loved dining out on the pretty terrace in the evening.

Egnathia at Masseria Torre Coccaro

We also dined out at Egnathia, in the nearby Masseria Torre Coccaro. This masseria is a 16th century fortified farmhouse was enjoyable to wander round before dinner, with a vegetable garden and pretty little chapel.

Images: https://masseriatorrecoccaro.com/en/restaurants/egnathia-restaurant

Pizzeria Del Portico (Fasano)

For a relaxed evening out, we went to Pizzeria Del Portico in Fasano, located under the archways of the Piazza Mercato Nuovo. This quaint spot serves traditional pizzas and homemade pasta (no website, call +39 33939 62668).

Do

Ostuni

The “White City” of Ostuni is a beautiful hilltop town with bright white architecture visible from afar. Wandering through its maze of alleys, discovering hidden cafés and artisan shops, was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

Monopoli

Monopoli’s seaside charm is undeniable, with its picturesque port and beautiful waterfront views. The old town is filled with narrow streets lined with colourful buildings, bustling squares and charming cafés.

The South

Stay

Masseria L'Olivo (part of Hideaways Club)

This beautiful masseria, part of the Hideaways Club that we are members of, combines traditional Italian charm with contemporary design and modern comforts. Just a 20-minute drive from the town of Otranto, Masseria L’Olivo provided a luxurious and secluded experience in the countryside.

The interiors at Masseria L’Olivo reflect a blend of rustic and modern design, with exposed stone walls, vaulted ceilings, and carefully selected antiques.

The courtyards act as the heart of the estate, one at the entrance with a pretty garden area and the other housing the beautiful pool. An outdoor kitchen and dining space are ideal for outdoor dining.

Café

Caffetteria Il Moresco di Otranto

With a prime location overlooking Otranto’s picturesque harbour, Caffetteria Il Moresco was a good stop for a mid-morning espresso. The views over the water were beautiful and watching boats come and go as we enjoyed our coffee made for a lovely break (no website, address: Via Punta, 11, 73028 Otranto).

Dine

Fronte Mare

Fronte Mare has a prime location right on the waterfront in Otranto, with a front-row view of the, a menu based on fresh seafood and modern, minimalist décor. It is a more lively, bustling option in Otranto.

L'Altro Baffo

An more intimate restaurant nestled in Otranto’s historic centre, L’Altro Baffo specialises in creative, modern Italian dishes with an emphasis on local ingredients. The ambiance is sophisticated yet unpretentious.

Images: https://www.laltrobaffo.com

Il Diavolicchio Goloso

Just outside Otranto, Il Diavolicchio Goloso had a more rural feel, surrounded by gardens. The focus is on hearty, traditional dishes with rich pastas, grilled meats, fresh fish and local wines.

Image: https://www.facebook.com/IlDiavolicchioGoloso/

Pizza Chef (by Hideaways Club)

At our own Masseria L’Olivo, we enjoyed a fun pizza night with a local chef creating to order classic Italian pizzas in the masseria’s wood-fired oven. A bit of a change from our typical Friday night takeaway pizza!

Beach

Torre dell'Orso

Torre dell’Orso is a beach town in the Salento area, about 20” drive from Otranto. The long stretch of sandy beach is fringed by pine forests and enclosed by cliffs on both sides.

Do

Olive oil mill visit and cooking class - Masseria Stali

Our visit to Masseria Stali Olive Oil Mill was an fun experience. We toured the estate’s olive groves and learned about traditional and modern olive oil production techniques. We then had a cooking class, where we had a go at making and then eating dishes orecchiette with fresh tomato sauce.

Winery visit and lunch - Masseria L'Astore

At Masseria L’Astore, we had a lunch accompanied by a tasting of the estate’s wines. It was an entertaining and fun experience, though you the organisation of the visit was a bit chaotic.

Otranto old town

We spent a couple of visits wandering along the seafront in Ontranto and then exploring the old town. It has narrow, winding streets with whitewashed houses. The paths led us up to the imposing Castello Aragonese, Otranto’s medieval castle.

Lecce

Often called the “Florence of the South,” Lecce has ornate architecture, palaces, churches and winding streets. Main sights include the Chiesa Del Buon Consiglio or Church of Jesus (below left) and Cathedral Square (below right).

Why a week in Puglia?

Puglia offers an enchanting escape where rustic charm meets coastal beauty. You can enjoy scenic countryside, the beautiful hilltop towns of Lecce and Oustuni and also relax by the beach.