The Île de Ré, off the west coast of France, is a hidden gem that feels untouched by time. Its unspoilt beaches stretch endlessly, with not a high-rise or resort in sight. Here, you ditch the car, rent a bike and let the island’s gentle rhythm guide your days.
We’ve stayed twice in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, a pretty village centred around a picturesque port. We have also stayed in Les Portes-en-Ré, a more remote village at the tip of the island, popular with Parisian second home owners seeking a chic beach experience with fewer tourists!
While the summer months are undoubtedly popular, June and September are great times to visit. The temperatures are warm, the skies a brilliant blue and the crowds much thinner.
Stay
La Baronnie Hôtel & Spa, Saint-Martin
Just a two-minute stroll from the bustling port, La Baronnie is a refined retreat in the heart of Saint-Martin. This grand 18th-century mansion has been lovingly restored, its elegant rooms and suites blending history with modern comfort. Its discreet luxury, warm service, and proximity to the port make it a perfect base to explore the island at your own pace. We’ve recommended it to friends who also had a lovely stay.
Mornings here were a highlight, taking a leisurely breakfast on the sun-dappled terrace surrounded by lush gardens.
Le Corps De Garde, Saint Martin
Le Corps De Garde is a six-room maison d’hôtes (bed & breakfast) where stayed in quite a while ago. It’s a simpler, more down-to-earth affair than La Barronie, so more affordable too. The former 17th-century guardhouse has a great location right on the ancient harbour wall. The interiors have linen curtains, vintage furniture and walls adorned with marine-inspired art.
Do
Bike to the beaches
Biking around the island is the main activity on the Île de Ré, with over 100 kilometres of flat, well-maintained bike paths. The pristine beaches remain unspoilt, with no cafés or snack bars interrupting the natural beauty.
Before setting off, we would stock up at Boulangerie Do Ré Mie on the port next to the island map, grabbing fresh baguettes, pastries and local cheeses for a perfect beach picnic.
Visit the Villages
One of the delights of staying in Saint-Martin is how easy it is to hop on your bike and visit the nearby villages. A short 15-minute ride away is La Flotte, a charming spot with its own character. Along the way, a good stop for oysters and a glass of crisp local wine is Les Copains Bâbord, a family-run cabane with views across the sea.
Les Portes-en-Ré is the most exclusive village, populated as we said earlier by well-heeled Parisians with second homes. The central Place du Village hosts a lively market that’s worth a visit (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays during summer months), offering everything from artisanal cheeses to handmade linens. The hotel offer is limited so most people staying here rent a house.
Drink
Bar 1721 (La Baronnie)
Bar 1721 at La Baronnie was an intimate, sophisticated spot for pre-dinner aperitifs, with its vintage decor and cozy corners. The atmosphere was relaxed yet elegant, making it the ideal spot to unwind before heading out to dinner.
Dine
All these places are on or near the port. They don’t tend to have websites, so it’s an old school job to book a table on the phone!
Madame Sardine
For a laid-back yet delicious dinner, Madame Sardine on the port is a seafood lover’s paradise. with a laid back bohemian ambiance.
Le Bistro du Marin
Le Bistro du Marin is another informal dining spot that puts the spotlight on seafood, with the terrace having great views on the port. The casual, friendly vibe makes this bistro a favourite among locals and visitors alike.
Le Saint Mart
Le Saint Mart is a nice crêperie just off the main square, a good spot for a relaxed meal when you want a break from seafood.
Ice Cream
La Martinière
No evening in Saint-Martin is complete without a visit to La Martinière. Located right on the port, locals and tourists alike partake in the nightly ritual of strolling around the harbour ice cream in hand.
Why a trip to the Île de Ré?
A week on the Île de Ré is an invitation to slow down and enjoy life’s simple pleasures against a backdrop of natural beauty and understated elegance. From cycling round the island to savouring fresh seafood by the sea or wandering round in Saint-Martin, the Île de Ré offers a perfect blend of relaxation, exploration and timeless French style.
