A journey to {SICILY}:

Noto is an opulent haze of honey-hued walls, grand churches, decorative balconies and warm limestone that seems to glow in the Sicilian light. It was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1693, when much of South East Sicily had to be reimagined almost from scratch. The result is one of the most complete and beautiful Baroque towns in Italy, with grand façades, sweeping staircases and elegant palazzi arranged with a sense of theatre that still feels very alive today.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the orderly artery of the town, lined with churches, cafés, shops and people drifting up and down in the evening. Step away from it and Noto becomes even more interesting, with steep side streets, crumbling façades, wrought-iron balconies and little glimpses into everyday Sicilian life. It is polished enough to feel special, but lived-in enough not to feel like a museum.

We stayed at The Old Mill, part of the Hideaways Club that we are members of. It sits just outside Noto, between almond and olive groves, and was a brilliant base for exploring South East Sicily. The house is a beautifully restored former olive mill, with the original millstone still in place as a reminder of the building’s 19th-century history.

The interiors have recently been and feel warm, relaxed and easy to live in. There are natural textures, soft colours, contemporary lighting and Sicilian character that make it feel authentic.

The whole place has the feel of a private country home rather than a formal villa. The kitchen is well set up for cooking, which we did several times after picking up local produce. There’s also a barbecue outside for outdoor dining.

The house has four en-suite bedrooms, which makes it very easy for a multi-generational family or several couples travelling together. The bedrooms are comfortable with simple styling and good bathrooms.

Outside is where The Old Mill really comes into its own. The pool is surrounded by countryside views, olive trees and loungers, and it became our default place for lazy afternoons after a morning exploring. There is also a large terrace that works at all times of day: coffee in the morning, reading in the shade after lunch, aperitifs as the light softens, and candlelit dinners in the evening.

Manna Noto was one of our favourite places to dine on the whole trip, and we liked it so much we went back twice. It sits just outside Noto, inside the lovely Baglio Siciliamo Country House, close to Lido di Noto. The setting is a picture-perfect Sicilian courtyard, with stone walls, soft lighting, candlelit tables and that warm, slightly magical feeling you want from a summer dinner in Italy. The restaurant says it is set in an ancient late-18th-century Palmento, surrounded by countryside and citrus trees near the beaches of Lido di Noto.

The food is inventive but still very much rooted in Sicily, using great local produce and plenty of fresh seafood. We liked that it felt special without becoming stiff. Dishes were beautifully presented but not overworked.

Crocifisso was our personal culinary highlight of the trip. Crocifisso is right in the centre of Noto, in a restored historic building, and has one Michelin star. The restaurant is led by chef Marco Baglieri (below right) and is known for taking traditional Sicilian ingredients and presenting them in a more refined, contemporary way.

The tasting menu felt incredible value compared with what you would pay for the same level in London. The cooking was polished and beautiful, but still full of flavour. The mushroom cappuccino was one of the dishes that stayed with us, alongside elegant seafood courses, beautifully presented appetisers and rich, generous flavours. The wine list is extensive, with plenty of native Sicilian labels. And the service was quietly confident and delivered with a smile.

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni is right in the centre of Noto, on one of the prettiest side streets in town. We had a terrace table directly opposite the magnificent Palazzo Nicolaci, which made the setting feel almost unreal in the evening light. It is not trying to be cutting-edge, and that is part of the charm. This is the place for fresh Sicilian pasta, local wine and a front-row seat to one of Noto’s most beautiful corners.

Vincenzo Dascanio Café & Boutique is a glamorous new addition to Noto, with a colourful bar, polished interiors and a very pretty terrace. The site has a café, a home décor boutique and a restaurant. At dinner, Da Vincenzo celebrates Sicily through a refined Mediterranean menu, reworking local home-cooking classics.

Giufà Bistrot is on the seafront in Avola and was a relaxed, easy option for lunch or dinner by the sea. It has a covered terrace, views out towards the water and a friendly, informal feel. The cooking features fresh seafood, homemade pasta and simple dishes. We loved the friendly service and the laid-back feel. Call +393925430015 to book.

Porto Matto is also on the seafront in Avola, with outdoor seating, pizzas and seafood dishes. We liked that it was full of locals and had a very informal, chilled-out feel. Our pizzas were fine rather than memorable, so we would say it is useful for an easy, low-key dinner but not somewhere to go out of your way for!

Basarico has a lovely setting inside Val di Noto Agriturismo, with outdoor seating and a countryside feel. The food was fine, but for our taste, it tried a little too hard to give a sophisticated twist to Sicilian dishes!

Norma Bistrot was recommended by our Instagram community, but we ran out of time to try it. It is still firmly on our list for next time! The interiors look wonderfully Sicilian in that slightly unexpected way: olive-green banquettes, chandeliers and industrial chairs. It has a reputation for beautifully presented food without the endless tasting menu formality, instead favouring contemporary riffs on pasta, seafood and Italian classics. Condé Nast Traveller also included Norma in its Sicily restaurant recommendations, praising its stylish interiors and locavore cooking.

Caffè Sicilia is the famous one, right on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and it is very busy for good reason. It has been going since 1892 and is known for Sicilian pastry, gelato, granita and beautifully made sweets. The terrace is hard to get, but it is worth trying, especially for a classic Sicilian granita and brioche break!

Caffè Costanzo is tucked just off the main flow, with a terrace surrounded by Baroque buildings and felt to us a little more local than Caffè Sicilia. A great spot for Sicilian treats, including brioche with granita, cannoli and gelato. A good one for breakfast or an afternoon coffee break too.

Gagliardi Boutique Hotel has one of the best rooftop settings in Noto, with views across the rooftops, domes and honey-coloured façades. It is a lovely place for aperitivo, especially as the light starts to drop. You do need to book, as the terrace is popular.

Aria Rooms and Terrace is another good option for sundowners with panoramic views across Noto’s rooftops and bell towers. It is more low-key than Gagliardi but still gives you that lovely above-the-town feeling that works so well in Noto.

The best way to enjoy Noto is simply to wander. Start on Corso Vittorio Emanuele in front of Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi all’Immacolata, which has a pretty piazza with a fountain.

Continue west towards the Cathedral of San Nicolò, which sits dramatically above a broad grand staircase. You may even be lucky like us and see a Sicilian wedding in full flow, bursting out onto the stairs! Opposite is the equally grand town hall building.

We also climbed the stairs to the Belvedere del Campanile di San Carlo, which gives sweeping views over Noto’s rooftops. From above, you really see how beautifully the town sits together: domes, bell towers, warm stone and the surrounding countryside beyond. Before or after you climb the stairs, admire the impressive painted ceiling of the church itself, Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso.

The main street is full of grand Baroque façades, cafés and shops. But the quieter side streets are just as lovely, with balconies and carved stone details. Noto rewards a slower pace, so just get lost for a bit!

A boat trip is a lovely way to explore this stretch of coastline, and we did a great one with Guarino Boats, departing from Avola, around 15 minutes from Noto. Their tours include snorkelling equipment and a Sicilian aperitivo.

The water around Lido di Noto and along this coast is clear and turquoise, in places looking more Maldives than Mediterranean! We stopped for swimming and snorkelling near Calamosche, one of Sicily’s best-known beaches and reached the Vendicari Nature Reserve, where the old tonnara and watchtower are reminders of the area’s tuna-fishing heritage. Further south, the coastline opens towards Portopalo di Capo Passero, with views of Tafuri Castle and the Spanish Fortress (below right).

One of the nicest parts of the day was stopping at Marzamemi, a charming fishing village with a beautiful central square, independent shops, cafés and restaurants. We chose Liccamuciula as a lovely spot for a refreshment break (below right).

Back on board, an aperitivo and snacks were served with Sicilian smiles warmth, the perfect end to a beautiful day.

You can keep things very simple around Noto and just go to the local beaches for a swim. The sea is lovely, although be pre-warned, the beaches are not the tidiest! The first spot we tried was the main beach in Avola. Here, there was a good ice cream place called Al Molo where we sat outside on the terrace (check it’s still open, as Google Maps says it’s closed). In the evening, it got very lively, with a DJ from the bar next door playing music that was quite loud! We liked the fact that it was full of locals, with not a tourist in sight (apart from us!).

A bit further north up the coast is Spiaggia Libera. Here, there was a nice little café stand called Baraonda Music Bar, where we stopped for coffee. It opens in the evening, serving beer and even cocktails and seemed to be a busy spot with locals when we drove past!

We also tried two beach clubs. The first, more laid-back one, Sunset Beach, was recommended by our local concierge and was exactly what we wanted: turquoise sea, plenty of beds, a relaxed atmosphere and a good terrace for salads at lunch. It was also very reasonably priced compared with beach clubs in more famous parts of Italy, which made it feel even better.

We liked Agua Beach Resort less. The sea at San Lorenzo is beautiful, and Agua itself is well set up, but it felt as though it was trying a bit too hard to be cool. The restaurant was crowded, many tables did not have a sea view, and there were not many light lunch options unless you queued at the canteen-style café.

Just Noto is a lovely boutique for beautifully made linen clothing inspired by Sicily. We became regular visitors, going back several times and always coming away with something! The value for money is outstanding. And the service from the lovely Maria Chiara Pizzo is helpful and full of Sicilian warmth.

Santagatha Pozzilei Concept Store is worth visiting as much for the breathtaking building as for the shopping. It is set inside the former Church of Sant’Agata, with a spectacular painted ceiling and an atmosphere that makes the whole place feel special before you even look at the clothes. It is truly one of the most amazing shops we’ve been to anywhere in the world, not just in Italy.

Archivio is one of Noto’s most beautiful shopping stops, set inside Palazzo Rau della Ferla in the historic centre. It feels part boutique, part gallery, with tailored silk and linen pieces displayed alongside photography, art and design objects. The boutique was founded by Rosita Gia, who is a photographer and creative director, which helps explain why the shop has such a strong visual point of view.

Visit the Baroque Towns
The Baroque towns of South East Sicily are one of the main reasons to visit this part of the island. After the 1693 earthquake, towns including Noto, Ragusa, Modica and Scicli were rebuilt with grand churches, theatrical staircases, richly carved façades, wrought-iron balconies and warm local limestone. They share the same architectural language, but each has its own personality: Noto is elegant and orderly, Ragusa Ibla is dramatic and hillside, Scicli is smaller and more understated, and Modica is layered, historic and famous for chocolate.

Ragusa is about an hour’s drive from Noto and has a completely different feel. Where Noto is broad and composed, the old town part of Ragusa, called Ragusa Ibla, rises and falls over a hillside, with domes, staircases, terraces and honeyed views appearing at every turn. It feels theatrical but also charming, with narrow streets and little courtyards with balconies full of plants.

Park your car just outside the town in one of the car parks like this one we used. Start on the steps of Chiesa delle Santissime Anime del Purgatorio for views of the blue dome of Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Itria, then wander down the lanes towards Piazza Duomo, the centre point of the town. Here, Duomo di San Giorgio sits dramatically at the top of its staircase. Head inside to check out the impressive interior and to see the domed ceiling from inside. Gelati Divini, right on Piazza Duomo, is the perfect place to pause for delicious gelato!

We also loved Giardino Ibleo, a peaceful public garden with shady paths, countryside views and a pretty church. For lunch, Cenobio Osteria dei Frati is a refined choice on the terrace of Antico Convento dei Cappuccini, with a historic setting and refined local cooking.

Later, Salumeria Barocco is a lovely local spot for a glass of Sicilian wine or craft beer with local cheeses and cured meats.

Scicli was probably our favourite of the smaller towns. It is the most understatedly chic: smaller, easier to absorb and very pretty in a warm, lived-in way. It has all the Baroque beauty but with fewer crowds than Noto. We’ve done a walking tour map for this one (see below).

Start with a walk along Via Francesco Mormino Penna, which is picture-postcard pretty and lined with churches, palazzi and little shops. We liked Vino e Dintorni for Sicilian wine and local products, and Colori del Sole for tastefully designed souvenirs and printed textiles.

Stop in front of Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista to admire the striking green doors, then go inside if it is open to see the beautiful roof. Carry on to Palazzo Beneventano, which is an amazing setting for the Bassi Beneventano gallery, although do check opening hours as it was closed when we visited.

For a break, Ficu does excellent granita and cremolata with views of the Piazza Italia; exactly the sort of stop you want for a delicious and refreshing pause on a hot day! Then take the walk towards Chiesa di San Bartolomeo, before taking the steep climb up to Chiesa di San Matteo. We couldn’t go inside when we visited, but the stunning views back across the town, including towards Chiesa di Santa Maria, were well worth the climb.

Walk back down and finish by admiring one final church, Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine on Piazza Busacca. There’s then time for one more final coffee at Antico Caffè Gritti.

Modica is only around 55 minutes from Noto and sits close to Scicli, so the two can be combined if you start early. We ran short on time and so only had a quick look, but it is definitely somewhere we would like to return to. Like Noto, Ragusa and Scicli, it is a shining

example of Sicilian Baroque architecture, but you feel the island’s wider history here too, with Greek, Roman, Arab and Norman layers all part of the story.

Modica is also famous for chocolate, with traditional production methods dating back centuries. The most famous stop is Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily, which has been in Modica since 1880.

Ortigia is the historic heart of Syracuse and makes a brilliant day trip from Noto. On the way in, you pass the Temple of Apollo, one of the most visible reminders of the island’s Greek history (below left). You can start wandering the pretty side streets, enjoying the sea views and seeing impressive architecture.

From there, walk down to Piazza Duomo, one of Sicily’s most beautiful squares, lined with outdoor cafés. The honey-coloured buildings are almost blindingly bright in the sunshine. The cathedral is striking, built around the remains of an ancient Greek temple. Just off the main square, FiCo Restaurant is a nice shaded spot away from the crowds to pause for refreshments.

After that, get lost among Ortigia’s narrow streets, browsing independent boutiques and ceramics shops. Via Cavour is especially good. We liked TAMI’ Concept Store for stationery and gifts, COOL DE SAC for handmade clothing and Ortigia Sicilia for candles, fragrance and soaps. But our top spot was clothing store Ayoune, where the guys in our group stocked up on stylish linen shirts and shorts at great value prices!

In the part of town, we also stumbled on beautiful looking boutique hotel called La Maison, that we noted down for a future stay in Ortigia. They also have a nice wine shop and champagne bar called La Societé.

Walk the seafront along Lungomare Alfeo, where clear turquoise water laps against the old city walls. At the southern tip of the island, Castello Maniace is a 13th-century fortress with wonderful sea views. Wandering down a side street, we found a nice place for a pasta lunch on a terrace at Trattoria Spizzuliamu. This worked well for a relaxed stop after a morning of wandering before heading home.

We didn’t have time to check out Ortigia’s outdoor food market near the Talete parking area, which is open every morning except Sunday. It’s meant to be full of ripe tomatoes and peaches, fresh fish and all the noise and theatre of Sicilian market life. If you have time to visit the market, nearby Caseificio Borderi is famous for huge sandwiches filled with house-made mozzarella, cured meats, herbs, oil and lemon juice.

Syracuse itself was once a major ancient Greek city, famously described by Cicero as one of the most beautiful Greek cities. We did not have time to visit the main archaeological sites, but we would like to go back and do them properly, including the Greek theatre and Roman amphitheatre.

Long before Netflix showed off its good looks in The White Lotus, Taormina was a magnet for poets, film stars, aristocrats and Grand Tour travellers. Its position is extraordinary, perched high above the eastern coastline with views over the Ionian Sea and towards Mount Etna. Almost every balcony, terrace and hotel bar seems to come with a heart-stopping view.

We did like Taormina, and enjoyed our special occasion weekend there, but did find the town quite touristy compared with Noto and the South East. It is still beautiful, and the hotel scene is exceptional, but we were glad we had spent most of our trip in quieter places before finishing here.

We splashed out on a stay at Villa Sant’Andrea (a Belmond Hotel) for our wedding anniversary weekend and it was a truly magical place. It sits directly on the Bay of Mazzarò, below Taormina town, with its own beach club and views across the turquoise Ionian Sea. A complementary shuttle takes you up to Taormina itself or the cable car station is right next door.

The hotel began life as a private family villa, and despite now being one of Sicily’s finest hotels, it still has the feeling of a beautiful home rather than a big resort. The style is old-school Sicilian seaside glamour: elegant, warm and slightly aristocratic. It is not trying to be contemporary or edgy, but everything is tasteful and beautifully maintained.

The rooms are classic and comfortable, with the nicer rooms facing the sea, enjoying stunning views of the bay. Waking up to that blue view and having coffee on our little balcony was truly magical.

Outside, Lido Villeggiatura is the hotel’s private beach club, with striped parasols, loungers, a buzzy but relaxed atmosphere. The service was special, combining Sicilian warmth with faultless efficiency (cleaning your sunglasses, offering a gelato to refresh you etc. !)

Bar Sant’Andrea is lovely for a light lunch or sundowner with wonderful views. And Ristorante Sant’Andrea gives you classic, romantic, sea-facing dining. It is also the setting for the sumptuous breakfast buffet (below right), one of the most indulgent we’ve had in any hotel!

A lovely private boat tour of the bay and surrounding coastline, including Isola Bella, a tiny, rocky island within a nature reserve (below right), is also part of your stay. Other complementary services include Sicilian wine tasting. The service throughout felt genuinely Sicilian: warm, full of soul, but also super efficient.

Grand Hotel Timeo was the other hotel we looked at for our anniversary weekend, but we decided against it because we wanted to be by the sea and preferred the more contemporary design on Sant’Andrea. This is the classic Taormina grand-dame, right by the Greek Theatre, with sweeping views towards Mount Etna and an easy walk to Corso Umberto.

It feels more old-world than modern, but in a polished, heritage way. The terrace is a big draw, especially for drinks at sunset (see below). There is also a Michelin-star restaurant on site. If you want to be in town, close to the theatre, shops and restaurants and are ready to splash on a special trip, Timeo would be a good choice.

San Domenico Palace is the hotel made famous by The White Lotus, set in a former monastery with cloisters, stone courtyards and those huge Taormina views. Rooms spans a 14th-century convent wing and an 1896 grand hotel wing.

It is undeniably spectacular, but it felt a little less our vibe. The monastery setting is atmospheric, and the main bar in the courtyard is very glamorous (below right), but the whole place has more of a more traditional and serious feel to it.

Corso Umberto is Taormina’s famous main street, packed with boutiques, cafés and gelaterias. Given LWMH owned hotel group Belmond has not one but two luxury hotels in the town, there is an impressive selection of luxury boutiques compressed into a small area! You can start at the gate to the town, Porta Mesina (below left), and walk all the way down to the piazza in front of the Duomo di Taormina, the medieval Catholic church (below right).

The street is busy if a bit touristy, but still fun for a wander, especially early or later in the day. Views keep appearing in gaps between buildings, and there are plenty of places to pause for coffee, granita or an aperitivo.

The Louis Vuitton store is worth a look even if, like us, you cannot afford to buy anything! It is set in a beautifully restored palazzo and is far more interesting than a standard luxury boutique. It also won the prize for the most fun summer window display, with a Louis Vuitton branded ice cream van!

The Ancient Theatre of Taormina is one of the town’s big sights and really is worth seeing, with its ancient stone seating, columns, sea views and Mount Etna in the distance. It is popular, so we would book tickets here to avoid queues, especially in peak season.

Le Bar Louis Vuitton on Corso Umberto is very chic, with everything in this rooftop bar given a Louis Vuitton twist, including the food! It serves refined Sicilian-inspired food and drinks and does not come cheap, with a minimum €50 spend per person when we visited. However, the lovely views (below right), stylish setting and design details make it worthwhile for a special drink.

The Dolce & Gabbana café is another colourful stop, full of Sicilian pattern, brightness and theatrical detail. It’s slightly dangerous for the wallet, as you may come out with a handbag or some other fashionable accessory!

The terrace at Grand Hotel Timeo is one of the best places in Taormina for drinks, with wide views across the coast and towards Etna. The service was lovely and friendly, and it has that polished Belmond feeling without being too stiff. We would absolutely go back for a sunset aperitivo.

Ristorante Sant’Andrea is the restaurant at Villa Sant’Andrea and was exactly right for a relaxed but special dinner by the sea. The cooking focuses on fresh Sicilian produce and seasonal dishes, but the real luxury is the setting: tables facing the water, warm service and the gentle sound of the bay in the background.

Anciovi is the seafood restaurant at San Domenico Palace, by the pool, with views and a smart-casual feel rather than a very formal dining room. It is a good way to experience the Four Seasons setting without committing to a full fine-dining evening. You can enjoy seafood, polished but warm Sicilian service and a glamorous Taormina backdrop.

We loved our stay in Sicily. It has some rough edges, but these make it feel more authentic than some other Italian holiday destinations. And we found the Sicilian people to be warm, welcoming and full of soul. It also has much more than beaches to offer, with beautiful Baroque towns, rustic countryside views, local restaurants and boat trips. It has a slower rhythm that feels very different from mainland Italy, and we found ourselves totally relaxed by the end of our stay.

Taormina has old-school glamour, sea views and special-occasion hotels. But for us, the South East is the place to base yourself, with Noto’s stunning architecture and multitudes of dining options, Scicli’s quieter charm, Ragusa Ibla’s mountain-top setting and Ortigia’s seaside vibe.