Our stay in {BUENOS ARIES}:

Recoleta and neighbouring Retiro are the epitome of Buenos Aires sophistication. French-inspired architecture, café culture, tree-lined avenues and a sense of old-world charm almost made Anne-Marie feel like she was back home in Paris!

We chose to end our South American trip with the comfort and top-notch service you can rely on the Four Seasons to deliver. We stayed in a Mansion View room in the sleek modern tower that overlooks the second part of the hotel, a grand Belle Époque mansion with more traditional rooms. The décor in the tower is a blend of classic sophistication and contemporary luxury, although the styling did feel 10 years out of date to our taste!

The hotel was well located for exploring the city’s diverse neighbourhoods, with buzzy Palermo to the west, the historic districts of San Telmo and La Boca in the south and Recoleta’s leafy streets on the doorstep. The outside pool was a great place to chill after a day touring the city.

We only had breakfast at Elena, the hotel’s restaurant. This was an impressive affair with an extensive, delicious buffet, a wide range of options you could order and excellent service.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a beautiful bookshop housed in a former theatre that dates back to early 1900s and an impressive sight to pop in and see. The ornate balconies, golden mouldings and crimson curtains remain intact. The main stage, which once hosted tango performances and dramatic plays, has been transformed into a café.

Recoleta Cemetery is a labyrinth of grand mausoleums and statues, where many of Argentina’s most notable figures, including Eva Perón, are laid to rest. A top tourist spot though we didn’t have time to visit this time!

There is a thriving café and patisserie scene in Buenos Aries, especially in Recoletta, and the hotel had a whole guide to cafés in the area. We checked out a few and have selected three to share here, two more contemporary and one more historic.

Amayta is a charming spot with a picturesque terrace, where lush greenery and cozy seating create the perfect ambiance for enjoying artisanal coffee and delectable pastries.

Clorindo Café is a striking homage to Argentine architect Clorindo Testa, housed in a building with brutalist design. The café’s stark concrete walls and minimalist aesthetic are softened by its lush garden.

Confitería La Ideal is a historic café that opened in 1912, with stunning Belle Époque architecture including intricate stained glass, ornate mouldings and elegant marble columns. The café has preserved its old-world charm while serving classic Argentine pastries, coffee and afternoon tea. Stepping into this iconic establishment is like taking a journey through the city’s rich cultural and architectural history.

At street level, Florería Atlántico appears to be an elegant florist and wine shop (below left). However, behind an unassuming door and down a narrow staircase lies one of the city’s most celebrated cocktail bars (below middle), consistently ranked among the best in the world. The décor is a nod to the maritime theme with wooden panels, soft lighting and nautical art. Florería Atlántico’s cocktails are as inventive as its setting, inspired by the diverse cultures that have influenced Argentina. You can also dine here, with booking recommended.

The street this bar was on, Arroyo, looked like a nice area with other cafés and restaurants we didn’t have time to check out fully.

We celebrated the final evening of our trip by splurging on dinner at Aramburu. We had an extraordinary dining experience, up there with the best we’ve ever had in any city. The restaurant is a worthy winner of two Michelin stars. The intimate, avant-garde restaurant is a showcase of innovation, precision and the finest Argentine ingredients. The dining room is sleek and minimalist, with soft lighting and views of the quiet hum of activity in the kitchen.

The 18-course tasting menu took us on a culinary journey full of flavour, texture and colour. Each course was a mini masterpiece, meticulously plated and often accompanied by a story that connected it to Argentina’s culinary heritage. Our meal was expertly paired by the sommelier with wines from Argentina’s diverse regions.

Be sure to book ahead well in advance of your trip, as the restaurant is small and very popular!

Buenos Aires’ Centro district is home to some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Plaza de Mayo, where Argentina’s tumultuous past has played out over centuries. Overlooking the square is the famous the Casa Rosada (Pink Palace), where Eva Perón delivered her impassioned speeches from the balcony. This area is worth a quick trip, to get a sense of the city’s history, but less interesting than the other barrios in our book.

As Buenos Aires’ oldest neighbourhood, San Telmo exudes authenticity and charm and was our favourite barrio. We did two visits to the area during our stay, for drinks, lunch and simply to wander the streets. The bustling Sunday market is a haven for antique lovers and art enthusiasts.

The lively San Telmo Market is housed in a historic hall and is a feast for all the senses. There are many food stalls offering everything from Argentinian style barbequed meat to pizza. We chose to savour the empanadas from El Hornero, which locals told us were the best in town!

El Federal Bar, located in the heart of San Telmo, is a beloved institution steeped in history and character. Housed in a building dating back to the 1860s, it exudes an old-world charm with its vintage wooden decor, stained-glass windows, and a bar lined with antique bottles and memorabilia. The bar serves traditional Argentine fare, including empanadas and hearty stews, alongside a selection of local wines and craft beers.

Solar de French is a picturesque courtyard adorned with a canopy of colourful umbrellas. It has a selection of artisan shops and cafés, including Bonheur where we stopped and had an iced coffee on the pretty terrace.

We spent a couple of hours wandering the cobblestone streets, lined with colourful buildings, many featuring striking examples of street art.

Heading south from San Telmo took us to La Boca, one of the city’s most photogenic neighbourhoods, famous for its vividly painted buildings. Historically, the colourful tenement houses in the Camanito area were shared by immigrant families. Unable to afford a single uniform paint colour, they used leftover paints from the shipyards, resulting in the patchwork of bright hues. This is now a very touristy area but still worth a visit to take in the explosion of colours. Soccer fans can check out the stadium of Boca Juniors, known as La Bombonera.

NOTE: for safety reasons, we were advised to stay in the touristy area, not to wander too far off in any direction and to avoid wearing valuable items like expensive jewellery or watches!

Once a rundown docklands, Puerto Madero has been transformed into a sleek, modern neighbourhood. Its waterfront is lined with a huge number of restaurants and bars, offering stunning views of the city’s skyline. The iconic Puente de la Mujer bridge is a striking focal point.

No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without a tango show and there are loads to chose from. We went for the upscale option of La Roja Tango in the crazy, colourful Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero. The Faena’s cabaret venue is a crimson-drenched room with velvet drapes, crystal chandeliers, and an intimate stage. The show had some theatrical flair, with excellent dancers, costume changes, singers and a live orchestra.

Palermo is the city’s liveliest neighbourhood with loads of bars, restaurants and cafes in two sub-districts. Palermo Soho is trendy and artistic, with indie boutiques and leafy plazas. Blocks surrounding Plaza Armenia and Plaza Serrano are have the most to see and do. Palermo Soho’s alleyways (pasajes) like Pasaje Russel, Pasaje Soria and Sta. Rosa feature street art.

Palermo Hollywood borders Soho and is named after the film and radio studios located in the area. It also has plenty of hip restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Argentine “parrillas” are barbeque steakhouses and a famous feature of Buenos Aires. Don Julio is the most famous venue, but it is expensive and notoriously hard to book. We were lucky to have a friend who lives in the city looking after us, visiting instead a neighbourhood parrilla called Don Perico. We enjoyed sizzling cuts of beef, smoky chorizos and a hearty malbec. The place was full of locals on a Tuesday night with not a tourist in sight, always a good sign!

Chori has elevated the humble choripán, a chorizo sandwich, to an art form. It has become something of a hotspot, with its striking yellow colour scheme, and was busy with a young crowd when we visited.

Going out for helado, or ice cream, is one of the great pastimes in Buenos Aires. There are hundreds of “heladerías” across town. However, family-run Rapanui has earnt a reputation as the best of the lot and was strongly recommended by local friends and our two daughters who visited during their travels! There are several parlours across town, including the one we visited in Palermo, with contemporary interiors and pretty outdoor gardens or terraces. There is a dazzling array of ice cream flavours on offer, in addition to Franui: frozen raspberries coated in chocolate.

Buenos Aires offers a vibrant blend of culture, history, and modern charm. It deserves its reputation as the “Paris of South America,” enchanting you with its European-style architecture, café culture and colourful neighbourhoods like La Boca, San Telmo and Palermo. Food lovers can indulge in world-class steaks, local wines and Michelin star dining. And you can sample the passion of a live tango performance and even, like Anne-Marie, take a dance lesson with an instructor!