Are you interested in adding a cosy, contemporary countryside escape close to Paris? We’re just back from a wonderful weekend at La Domaine de Primard, part of the Fontenille Collection that we’re big fans of. The hotel is just one hour or so from Paris by car. And there’s so much to do that you won’t need to leave the grounds of the Domaine!
The 18th-century château with gardens, formerly owned by Catherine Deneuve no less, stretches along the banks of the river Eure.
Inside, the mood is cosy-country but clean and contemporary. It’s more “beautiful, chic family home” than the formal old-worldy, slightly dusty style we used to associate Relais Château hotels with (La Domaine is part of the group) . There are several sitting rooms with parquet floors and antique fireplaces where you can hang out, reading a book or playing games.
Rooms
Rooms are spread across the château and the grounds (39 in total). We had a lovely suite right under the eaves at the top of the château. They’re decorated with the contemporary softness that Fontenille does so well: pale colours, pretty fabrics, calm lighting and bathrooms that feel crisp and modern.
The best bit is waking up to views of either the river or the gardens — it feels like you’re truly in the countryside, even though you’re barely out of Paris.
Grounds
The grounds are genuinely special. The landscaped gardens were designed by Jacques Wirtz, who re-designed the Tuileries gardens of the Louvre. There are terraces, lakes and open farmland. Outdoor reading areas have been thoughtfully created, on the river bank and by the lakes.
Dining
There are multiple options for dining at the Domaine. So, for our weekend stay we were happy to stay on site for our meals.
Bistro Martin is the relaxed, convivial option. The breakfast was an extensive and delicious buffet affair (got to love a good hotel breakfast buffet!). We also had lunch there. Cooking focuses on seasonal produce with generous, simple and tasty dishes. We had one of the best burger and fries of recent memory, for example!
Les Chemins is the fine dining option, with a 5 or 7 course tasting menu, where we had a long and lovely dinner.
The “Table d’Hôtes” was one of our favourite parts of the country weekend. In this cosy areas an afternoon “goûter” of cakes, cookies and coffee or tea is served every day at 4pm (below). Then, in the evenings of winter months a raclette dinner is served at the weekend. We spend a relaxed, sociable and very satisfying evening, sharing the table with a lovely couple from Belgium, family style.
Activities
There is a small Susanne Kaufmann spa was a perfect way to spend a chilly winter afternoon. There is a Japanese bath, sauna and steam room (book ahead as there’s only space for four people at a time). We also had the nicest massages in a long time.
There is a heated outdoor swimming pool open from April to October, a gym, tennis and padel courts and areas for yoga, pilates or meditation. For golf enthusiasts, the Hersant golf course is just 5 minutes from the Domaine. So, lots to do in the warmer months when we plan to return!
You are also close to the famous gardens of Giverny, where Monet painted his famous water lily masterpieces.
If you’d like a countryside escape close to Paris on your next trip to the most beautiful city in the world (!), then La Domaine de Primard is an option we’d warmly recommend. You are so close to Paris and yet in a different world, lost in nature whilst being cocooned in luxury!
For more ideas on curated trips to beautiful places, see our complete list of 40 trips here
