Our week exploring villages of the {CÔTE D’AZUR}:

We based ourselves just outside Valbonne in a small village called Le Rouret at La Retraite. This is one of the houses of the Hideaways Club, a shared property ownership club that we are members of. Built in honey-hued stone, it has all the character of a traditional mas. The interiors of the ground floor and the bathrooms have been updated with contemporary touches. The kitchen is particularly good—bright, spacious and properly equipped with everything you need for cooking up dinners or lunches after shopping at the market.

The heart of life here is the pool and terraces. The deck looks out across a wooded valley and has plenty of sun loungers perfect for lazy afternoons relaxing after a morning of exploring villages and towns. At one end, a small pagoda shades a dining table for four to six people, perfect for easy breakfasts or relaxed dinners outdoors.

[Note: compared to other Hideaways properties, the bedrooms, overall decoration and outdoor eating areas need an upgrade! We understand this is planned for 2026]

Valbonne is a charming village that dates back to the Middle Ages, laid out in a neat grid of cobbled lanes rather than the winding alleys of many other hill towns. The stone buildings are beautifully kept, with painted shutters, little boutiques and cafés tucked into corners. At the heart of it all is the central square, a lively gathering place shaded by plane trees.

Friday is market day in Valbonne, and it’s one of the best in the region. From early morning until around 1pm, the pedestrianised streets fill with stalls selling everything from seasonal fruit and vegetables to cheese, olives, flowers and local textiles. It’s also a lovely way to see the village itself, as the medieval square and cobbled lanes take on a different rhythm when animated by the bustle of the market.

Café des Arcades is right in the middle of the square, with its large terrace spilling out under the arches. For years it’s been a favourite local meeting spot—perfect for a morning coffee, an apéritif in the early evening, or just sitting and watching the rhythm of village life unfold around you.

Photo: https://cafearcades.fr

Our friends had a nice lunch at Little Green Café, a cosy spot frequented by visitors and locals alike. It has soft light, gentle décor and the menu is focused on organic and homemade dishes with cold-pressed juices, specialty coffees, tartines, quiches and seasonal salads.

Photo: https://www.instagram.com/little_green_cafes/

In the centre of Le Rouret, right by the village square and church, Le Clos Saint Pierre is set in a simple stone building with a terrace shaded by plane trees. It’s a place that feels rooted in the village—relaxed, welcoming, and part of local life. Inside, the dining rooms are understated and comfortable, while the terrace is the spot for long lunches when the weather is warm. The atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious, with locals and visitors side by side.

Chef Daniel Ettlinger has been here since 2000 and still shops the local markets himself several times a week. He serves up seasonal, Provençal cooking presented with care, with the menu changing daily depending on what’s freshest. The style is unfussy, letting the ingredients and flavours stand out. There’s one set menu at two price points, changing daily with whatever is freshest at the market (the main courses were meat and fish-focused when we visited, so call ahead if you are vegetarian/vegan!).

St Paul de Vence is one of the most picturesque villages in the region, its cobbled alleyways winding past stone archways, shaded squares and a seemingly endless number of small galleries. It’s easy to spend an afternoon just wandering, dipping in and out of art spaces and shops, and pausing for a coffee or glass of rosé.

The village is also home to the famous La Colombe d’Or. In the early 20th century, artists like Picasso, Miró and Chagall would sometimes pay for their meals by leaving behind a painting or drawing. Many of those works still hang on the walls today, making a meal here feel a little like dining inside a private gallery. It’s a lovely place to eat if you’re in the mood for a splurge, but be prepared—it comes with a price tag that matches its reputation!

Perched on a hill overlooking Saint-Paul de Vence, Fondation Maeght is one of Europe’s most beautiful modern art museums—and a joy to explore. It’s a place where the building and setting are as captivating as the works inside. The white, angular structure is surrounded by sculpture gardens that melt into pine forest, with Calder mobiles swaying in the breeze and Giacometti’s elongated figures standing sentinel among the olive trees. Inside, you’ll find works by Miró, Braque, Chagall, and many more alongside exhibitions, such as one on Barbera Hepworth when we visited.

Sous les Pins Agitateurs a lovely spot to pause before or after exploring the museum, with tables set around a fountain shaded by trees. The café is run by the team behind Michelin-starred Les Agitateurs in Nice. The menu is light and seasonal, with salads, tartines and simple plates that make an easy lunch accompanied by a glass of rosé while soaking in the calm of the gardens.

The Chapelle du Rosaire was designed and decorated by Henri Matisse between 1948 and 1951, and every detail—from the stained-glass windows to the hand-painted tiles—reflects his vision of light and colour. The sunlight streams through panels of yellow, blue and green, bathing the white walls in shifting patterns. It’s intimate, contemplative, and utterly luminous. Closed Sunday and Monday and only open during limited hours, so make sure to plan ahead.

Gourdon is often called one of the most beautiful perched villages in France, and it really does live up to the title. The village sits dramatically on a rocky outcrop with a panorama stretches across the entire Côte d’Azur.

The village itself is compact and lovely to wander. Narrow cobbled lanes lead you past medieval stone houses and small squares filled with flowers in summer. Many of the buildings now house artisan boutiques—perfumeries selling scents made just down the road in Grasse, shops with handmade soaps, lavender oils and Provençal textiles, and little épiceries stocked with nougat, honey and local olive oil.

We were lucky to enough to visit during an exhibition of striking bronze sculptures by artist Nicolas Lavarenne, with works of art placed throughout the village.

Aux Vieux is a good lunch spot that serves up hearty, traditional cuisine. The food is classic Provençal, with dishes including onion soup and roast lamb. Call ahead to try a book one of the few tables on the little terrace on the sloping hill, with views over the mountains.

Discover the fascinating process of perfume creation, from flower to bottle. One of the crown jewels of Grasse’s perfume heritage, Parfumerie Fragonard has been crafting fragrances since 1926 and remains a family-run maison to this day. The factory tour is a fascinating step-by-step journey through the perfume-making process, from the fields of flowers harvested at dawn to the distillation rooms where the essences are extracted, aged, and blended. Gleaming copper stills, rows of vintage perfume bottles, and the heady scent of jasmine and rose absolute fill the air. Knowledgeable guides share stories about traditional techniques and the artistry involved in balancing top, heart, and base notes. The visit ends in the boutique—bright and beautifully stocked with perfumes, soaps, and candles that make perfect souvenirs.

Afterwards, we wandered the charming streets of Grasse, where the atmosphere is quintessentially Provençal, with narrow lanes lined with quaint cafés and restaurants offering delightful local cuisine. Café Fleur is a lovely little spot for a coffee and perfectly presented pastry.

Perched high in the hills above Cannes, Mougins is a near-perfect postcard of a French hilltop village. The approach winds past olive groves and cypress trees before revealing a maze of narrow, flower-draped lanes that spiral towards the central square. It’s a place that has long attracted artists and you can sense the creative energy in the cluster of galleries and studios. Terracotta rooftops and shuttered stone houses glow in the Mediterranean light.

La Réserve is a gorgeous boutique hotel that is beautifully designed, blending Provençal charm with contemporary style: pale stone walls, elegant shutters and a landscaped garden with a pool. As a non-resident, you can go for a drink on the lovely terrace, looking out over the hillsides as the sun slips away.

Le Petit Fouet is a cosy little spot in the centre of the village. Call ahead to get one of the tables on the cosy little terrace. The cooking is firmly rooted in French tradition, with generous, homemade dishes that are big on flavour. The place has a lovely and lively atmosphere with friendly service.

Bohème is a more chic and upscale option in Mougins. Set on the edge of the village, it has a polished, stylish look, with stone walls lit softly at night, contemporary furniture and a pretty terrace that’s especially lovely on warm evenings. The menu is more elevated than the local bistros, with beautifully presented dishes that play on Mediterranean flavours using high-quality seasonal produce. Expect delicate starters, expertly cooked fish and meat, and desserts that look almost too pretty to eat. It’s a good spot if you want a more sophisticated take on Provençal dining.

Known as the “City of Violets” for the flowers cultivated on its surrounding terraces, Tourrettes-sur-Loup is a beautiful medieval village. The old town has a maze of winding streets paved in smooth stone and lined with artisan shops. Bougainvillea spills over ancient walls, and glimpses of the glittering Mediterranean appear between rooftops. For the best views, follow the path along the ramparts, where the panorama stretches from forested hills to the distant coastline.

Leah Wine Bar is a lovely, lively spot to end the day with a glass in hand. It’s set right in the heart of the village, with tables that spill outside, perfect for catching the last of the sun as the sky softens and the stone buildings glow. The atmosphere is relaxed but buzzy, with locals and visitors mingling. What makes it stand out is the thoughtful, curated wine list: not just to drink there but also to buy and take home, with plenty of interesting finds from smaller producers alongside more familiar regional names.

Perched in a charming village setting, Le Cinq has emerged under new, younger ownership with a fresh, creative impulse. The central concept is a full five-course menu for €55—a rare find in this part of the Côte d’Azur! The cuisine is inventive, modern, and surprising without being overblown. Dishes are crafted with seasonal ingredients, bold touches, and a confident hand. There is a lovely terrace in the summer months where we had one of our most memorable dinners of our trip.

The villages of the Côte d’Azur might be only a few kilometres inland from Nice and Cannes, but they are a world away in terms of ambience and rhythm. Here, you will find a quieter, more authentic side of the Riviera. Medieval villages perched among rolling hills offer cobbled lanes, leafy squares and sweeping views of the coast. World-class art at Fondation Maeght and the perfume ateliers of Grasse are also close by. Dining is another highlight, from rustic village bistros to inventive tasting menus that rival the coast but at far better value. We love how this area combines the glamour of the Côte d’Azur with a more intimate, laid-back rhythm, making it an ideal destination for a refined yet relaxed getaway.