Our Trip to {PALM SPRINGS}:

Hidden down a quiet, manicured avenue just minutes from downtown Palm Springs, Villa Royale drips with retro-glam. A low-slung, adults-only hideaway framed by swaying palms and mountain views, the hotel is made up of a series of 1940s Spanish-style casitas, lovingly updated with a mid-century modern twist.

Décor features colourful tiles, vintage wood panelling and custom paintings of cultural icons like Debbie Harry and Elizabeth Taylor. The whole property was refreshed in 2023, bringing in lush landscaping, a hot tub and upgraded rooms. We started the day with the buffet breakfast in the outdoor lounge area (below left), a chance to chat to the other guests; the place has a friendly sociable vibe.

We spent afternoons lounging by the pool sipping the delicious cocktails served up from the bar. By night, Villa Royale transforms into something moodier. Courtyards flicker with candlelight and open-air firepits. Del Rey, the seductive speakeasy-style bar and restaurant is hot enough to draw plenty of non-residents (read more on it later in the Dine section).

Rooms inlcude cosy Capri rooms like the one we had to more spacious suites which come with separate living areas, kitchenettes and private bars. Rooms 31-39 where we stayed have their own private pool area (below right).

There are a number of different tours you can take to discover the amazing range of mid-century modern houses in Palm Springs. On our two trips to Palm Springs we’ve taken the PS Architecture Tour. The tour takes place in a small van with an expert guide and offers an in-depth introduction to the city’s most beautiful neighbourhoods. You also learn about Hollywood celebrities who bought homes here and added to the city’s allure. (NOTE: at the time of writing the tour takes c.3 hours without a break, so take a bottle of water!)

You can also rent a bike and follow one of the many self-guided modernist architecture routes through the city’s residential neighbourhoods. You’ll spot iconic low-slung homes with breeze block walls, butterfly roofs and perfectly placed desert landscaping.

Set at the base of the San Jacinto Mountains, the Palm Springs Art Museum is a striking space dedicated to modern and contemporary art, architecture, and design. The building itself echoes the city’s signature aesthetic with clean lines, concrete and glass. Inside, the collection features standout works by artists like Henry Moore, and Andy Warhol, alongside rotating exhibitions; we saw an excellent David Hockney show that filled the galleries with bold colour and wit.

Just a few minutes’ walk away, the Architecture and Design Center offers a more focused look at modernist design. Housed in a beautifully restored mid-century bank building by E. Stewart Williams, it holds an impressive collection of photographs, models and exhibitions dedicated to the city’s design legacy.

An unexpected highlight of the trip, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway whisks you from desert floor to alpine forest in just 11 minutes. The rotating cable car climbs over 8,500 feet up the cliffs of Chino Canyon to Mount San Jacinto State Park, where you’ll step out into a totally different world: pine trees, crisp air, and snow in winter. Temperatures drop dramatically (sometimes to 2°C), so bring a jacket! At the top, there are hiking trails, panoramic views, and a café.

Just a short 20-mile drive from Palm Springs, the Indian Wells Tennis Garden is nestled in the heart of the Coachella Valley. Surrounded by the picturesque backdrop of the Santa Rosa Mountains, the venue offers a captivating setting that enhances the spectator experience. We were lucky to time our last visit during the Indian Wells Masters and were fortunate to witness British tennis sensation Jack Draper clinch his first ATP Masters 1000 title!

A couple of hour’s drive from Palm Springs takes you to Joshua Tree National Park for a starkly beautiful escape into the high desert. Entering through the West Entrance near the town of Joshua Tree, you pay your fee at the Visitor Centre before immersing yourself in a landscape where the Mojave and Colorado deserts converge. You drive through the park, pulling over to walk and explore the landscape. A half-day trip is enough to see the highlights we share below.

The Hidden Valley Nature Trail is a gentle one-mile loop through a rock-enclosed valley, showcasing the park’s iconic Joshua trees and massive boulder formations

As you continue your drive, Skull Rock is a naturally eroded granite formation resembling a human skull.

Heart Rock is a romantic photo spot and look out for the rock that looks like a face nearby! From here, you can take the trail to Arch Rock, rising from the desert like a prehistoric monument.

If you have a bit more time, other notable activities include the trails to Barker Dam and The Lost Horse Mine.

Equal parts speakeasy and supper club, Del Rey at Villa Royale glows with mood lighting and vintage glamour. A recent revamp introduced sapphire-blue walls, chrome accents and a new tapas-heavy menu featuring standout dishes like croquetas de pollo and empanadas del rey.

Don’t let the word “communal” put you off! While the tables may be shared, the vibe at Barn Kitchen is quiet and intimate. Located at the rustic-chic Sparrows Lodge, the kitchen serves fresh, unfussy food in a simple outdoor setting. It’s pared-back in the best way, and the setting—surrounded by desert landscaping and candlelight—is effortlessly romantic.

Named after British tastemaker Cecil Beaton, Bar Cecil is all about bold interiors, strong cocktails and serious people-watching. One of the buzziest spots in town, it was our favourite dining destination in Palm Springs. The artichokes are enormous, the Duroc pork chop is fall-apart tender, and the Martinis are properly made. Booking ahead is essential.

Workshop is all cool concrete lines and soaring ceilings: a minimalist backdrop for some of the city’s best farm-to-table cooking. Dinner can be enjoyed in one of the booths inside or outside in the leafy, candelit courtyard. Expect seasonal Californian dishes with thoughtful presentation.

After wandering through the Palm Springs Art Museum, LIVS is the perfect place to sit and soak up the sun. This elegant café serves light seasonal dishes on a beautiful stone terrace, surrounded by desert plants, water and sculptures.

Beneath a canopy of orange and yellow stripes, Norma’s is the ultimate five-star diner. Set inside the Parker Palm Springs, it serves up elevated comfort food with a desert garden view. Fresh-cut flowers, crisp linens, and polished service make it feel special, whether you’re ordering a burger or something lighter.

Hidden away in Palm Springs with no signage and just 30 seats, The Evening Citizen channels classic speakeasy energy with just the right amount of mystery. It features velvet banquettes, moody lighting and a menu of cocktails that balance craft with invention. It’s one of those places that makes you feel like you’re in on a very stylish secret! (Tip: it’s at the back of the row of buildings on East Arenas Rd behind an innocuous door with no sign!)

We read about this place but didn’t have time to go on our trip: one for our next visit. Formerly the famous Fifties tiki bar Don the Beachcomber, this place was reborn in 2015 as Bootlegger Tiki. As you’d expect, it’s heavy on pseudo-Polynesian kitsch, with novelty lamps and glassware. The tropical drinks hit that sweet spot, especially the house Mai Tai.

A Palm Springs classic, Cheeky’s is buzzy, casual and worth the queue. Their rotating menu includes everything from inventive Benedicts to a bacon flight! Grab a table on the shady patio and settle in with coffee and some of the best pancakes in town. Menus change weekly and lean heavily on seasonal produce.

Peninsula Pastries is a tiny French bakery that’s become popular with locals and tourists alike for their croissants, pains au chocolat and crusty baguettes.

Hidden behind a picket fence, Farm feels like stumbling upon a secret garden in the middle of town. The Provençal-inspired space is a maze of fairy-lit patios and tucked-away tables. Their brunch menu features eggs done every way, fresh fruit, and golden avocado toast.

Stretching along North Palm Canyon Drive between Hermosa Place and Alejo Road, the Uptown Design District is where Palm Springs’ design credentials are on full display. The vibe is lively and stylish, with a mix of vintage and contemporary furniture, fashion and accessories. Here we share some of our favourite places.

A design lover’s dream, Phylum curates a collection of vintage and contemporary furniture art, and lighting in a space that feels like a minimalist gallery. Everything is beautifully presented, and the mix of textures and eras is perfectly balanced.

A Palm Springs icon, Trina Turk is a must for bold prints and California-glam style. The flagship store is housed in a classic mid-century building, with a rainbow of retro-inspired dresses, swimsuits and accessories inside. Everything feels vibrant, playful, and sun-drenched: perfect for packing if you’re lucky enough to making your way to Coachella or simple for lounging poolside.

If Palm Springs had an official illustrator, it might just be Shag. His instantly recognisable work is a love letter to the city’s vintage soul, with bold lines, cocktail glasses, pool parties and tiki barsis. The Shag Store is dedicated entirely to his art, along with prints, homeware, and limited-edition merch.

Effortlessly chic, Super Simple is a lifestyle and interior store that feels like stepping into the pages of a very curated magazine. The palette is warm neutrals and natural textures with ceramics, linen throws, handwoven baskets and minimal design pieces all beautifully styled.

Rubin Red Gallery is a contemporary space that showcases emerging and established artists with a strong West Coast influence. Expect bold canvases, abstract pieces, and sculptural forms in a bright, whitewashed setting.

We loved our stay in Palm Springs, with mid-century architecture, mountain views and desert sun all coming together in one effortlessly stylish package. The city is just a short hop from LA but a world away in how it looks and feels.