Our trip to {ATHENS}:

Kolonaki is a smart, cultured district nestled on the slopes of Mount Lycabettus, filled with stylish boutiques, local galleries and elegant cafés. You’re just a 20-minute stroll to the Acropolis but away from the tourist trail.

We spent an afternoon wandering its pretty streets, with chic boutiques tucked between classic apartment buildings. Café culture here is big—but more polished than in other parts of town. A quick note: many stores are closed on Sundays and some even on Saturdays, so a weekday trip is best for a full wander.

Hidden down a quiet, tree-lined pedestrian alleyway and housed in a 1920s neoclassical townhouse, Shila doesn’t look like a hotel. And that’s exactly the point. Ring the bell and you’re welcomed into what feels like a dreamy Athenian art collector’s home: softly lit rooms, velvet lounges and vintage mirrors.

Inside, Shila is a masterclass in boho chic glamour. The design mixes distressed plaster walls, worn wood, floating curtains and antique ceramics. Each of the six suites is different layered with soft textiles and handpicked objects, which are all for sale. Ours had a floating bed, a separate daybed lounge area and two bathrooms with stone sinks and artisanal fixtures.

The shady rooftop is a lovely spot to hang out, with wild plants, wooden furniture and an honesty bar. It was a beautiful setting for a long breakfast, lingering over fresh fruit, thick Greek yoghurt, crusty sourdough and iced coffee. You can also head up there for drinks during the day or for early evening sundowners.

Philos is a short stroll from Shila and is set inside a beautifully restored neoclassical mansion that oozes bohemian charm. The café has high ceilings, tiled floors and distressed plaster walls. The food is as thoughtfully curated as the interiors. The meticulously crafted menu is based on premium ingredients from all over Greece. We had a couple of delicious, creatively presented salads for lunch along with freshly squeezed lemonade with honey, mint and thyme. They also do brunch and are open for dinner.

Just around the corner is Frankie, a stylish Italian trattoria with exposed brick walls, warm lighting, and a relaxed, almost Brooklyn-meets-Athens feel. Their wood-fired oven turns out bubbling sourdough pizzas. It has lovely, friendly service too. Perfect for a low-key dinner in one of Athens’ chicest neighbourhoods.

Perched on a rocky outcrop at the heart of Athens, this over-2,000-year-old temple complex dedicated to Athena is the city’s defining landmark. We recommend visiting as soon as the site opens, before the crowds arrive (20,000+ visitors a day!) and the heat kicks in. We booked the “Small group, skip the queue” tour at 8am with Athens Walking Tours and were the very first people inside the temple complex.

The star of the show is the Parthenon, a masterpiece of classical architecture that still commands awe, even after two millennia. Its graceful columns and intricate friezes celebrate the power and glory of ancient Athens, with sculptural details that once depicted gods, heroes and mythical battles.

After the climb, we spent an hour or so at the Acropolis Museum. A modern architectural gem, it’s a thoughtful and immersive way to understand what you’ve just seen.

After a long day exploring ruins, nothing beats a cocktail with a view. We made a sunset booking at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square—a classic Athenian institution. The vibe is polished, with white tablecloths, flickering candles and sweeping views of the Acropolis bathed in golden light. Come dressed up and savour the moment. Their negronis were excellent, and so was the service.

Soil is a Michelin starred restaurant set in a restored 1925 neoclassical house. We loved the setting: a lush, hidden garden out back, where we dined under fairy lights. The restaurant calls its approach “earthy gastronomy”. And whilst each dish in our 14-course menu was creatively presented, it was all a bit too heavy on raw seafood for our liking!

Plaka buzzes with boutiques, cafés and souvenir shops, especially around the main streets near the Acropolis. But take a few turns off the beaten path and you’ll find narrow lanes lined with bougainvillea and whitewashed houses that feel more island village than capital city. It is also famous for its staircase cafes, with tables lining the slopes.

Anafiotika is a tiny, Cycladic-style village tucked within the Plaka area. The best place we found to enter into the village is the steps up to Church of Saint George of the Rock (below right). With its whitewashed houses, bright blue shutters and climbing flowers, it feels like a little slice of the Greek islands dropped into the city. And all the while, the Acropolis is there rising just above you.

Anafiotika was created in the 19th century by builders from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to work and recreated the whitewashed homes of their island right here, at the foot of the ancient citadel.

Melina Mercouri Café was a perfect spot for a break after walking round Plaka. We enjoyed thick, creamy Greek yoghurt topped with local honey and walnuts, paired with an iced coffee.

The charm continues inside, with vintage film posters, black-and-white photos and soft lighting create a nostalgic, theatrical vibe in honour of the beloved Greek actress the café is named after.

Anefani is a casual café with tables that spill out over a staircase, with tables balanced along each step. It’s a great spot to share a spread of mezze and a cold drink. Inside, the café has a traditional, old-world charm with wooden tables and tiled walls create. They have live music each night, with traditional Greek tunes featuring vocals and bouzouki, a traditional Greek stringed instrument (check their website for details and to reserve a table)

Tucked into a side street just off Kolonaki Square, Flâneur has a tranquil, cream-toned interior with shelves display a thoughtfully edited selection of fashion, homewares, and lifestyle goods.

Hidden away on a pedestrian side street, Thiki Greece is a concept store that reimagines Greek heritage through a contemporary design lens. T-shirts, notebooks and crockery all feature quotes inspired by classical Greek philosophy.

Monastiraki is a colourful, lively and almost chaotic area of Athens. It is home to loads of cool places to dine and drink, too many to try on our short trip.

Head to the Sunday flea market at Abyssinia Square for a treasure hunt amongst the antique furniture, retro cameras and vintage jewellery.

Part concept store, part eatery, part gourmet grocer, Ergon House is a contemporary temple to all things Greek and delicious. The impressive space features a 25-metre glass atrium flooded with natural light. The menu showcases great Greek flavors and Mediterranean conviviality, celebrating the richness of regional cuisine with a modern touch. We ordered from the open kitchen: crusty bread with whipped feta, slow-cooked lamb, roasted tomatoes with oregano and house olive oil.

The 72h Artisanal Bakery is part of the Ergon family, and its wild-fermented breads and Greek buns are some of the best in the city.

Birdman Records is a cool little vinyl store tucked into a side alley—think rare grooves, Greek jazz, and an owner who loves to chat.

Sweet Nolan is the playful dessert offshoot of the nearby Nolan restaurant. While Nolan is known for its inventive fusion of Greek and Asian flavours, Sweet Nolan takes that same creative spirit and applies it to sweets, pastries and ice cream. The space is small but beautifully styled, with clean lines and natural wood. Perfect for a sweet stop after exploring Monastiraki.

Couleur Locale is one of those Athens spots you’re unlikely to find unless someone tipped you off. Hidden off a side street in Monastiraki, you enter through a nondescript building and take the stair up to the rooftop. The space is laid-back and buzzing, with full-frontal view of the Acropolis that steal the show. The crowd is a mix of locals and in-the-know travellers, here to enjoy cocktails as the sun goes down over the Acropolis.

Buena Vista Social Bar is a great little terrace spot tucked right into the edge of Abyssinia Square, perfect for a mid-market break. It’s got a relaxed, slightly vintage vibe, with colourful metal chairs.

We read good reports about Avissinia, another restaurant and bar right on Abyssinia Square, but didn’t have time to dine here this time. We liked the warm and eclectic design, with antique mirrors, weathered wooden furniture and shelves stacked with old radios and bric-a-brac. They has a rooftop with impressive views over Athens.

TAF is a gallery meets bar meets cultural hub. Located in a hidden courtyard off the main drag, this design-led space hosts exhibitions, craft markets and performances. Check their Instagram page to see what is on during your visit.

Syntagma is the ceremonial heart of Athens, home to grand hotels, government buildings and upmarket stores. One place worth a visit is The Naxos Apothecary, a beautifully designed store celebrating Greek botanicals, made modern. The interiors are all clean marble, warm wood, and glass cloches filled with candles. Products range from skin care and scent to herbal teas and room sprays, all inspired by the Cyclades.

On a Sunday a popular activity is to watch the traditional changing of the guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier. The full parade happens at 11am but get there by 10:30 and stand opposite the monument for the best view of the soldiers in their pleated skirts and slightly comical pompom shoes!

We loved our long weekend in Athens and felt we could have done with more time to fully explore it. It’s a city full of contradiction: scrappy and refined, modern and mythical. One moment you’re gazing at fifth-century columns at The Acropolis, the next you’re sipping cocktails on a rooftop with a DJ spinning tunes! We loved how each neighbourhood had its own story: Kolonaki was cultured and serene, Plaka was postcard-pretty, Monastiraki vibrant and buzzy. We’ll definitely be going back for another visit!