
Overview of our trip
Corfu serves up laidback island life at its best: clear blue seas, long lunches by the water, and that easy Greek rhythm where nothing feels rushed. We based ourselves in Kentroma on the northeast coast, with quiet bays, open-air tavernas and beautiful beaches all on our doorstep. The views were spectacular, whether lounging at our villa, driving round the windy roads or boating from bay to bay. But it was the warm, good-humoured locals that really brought the place to life.
We also made a couple of day trips to Corfu Town — a maze of pastel buildings, leafy squares and elegant arcades — to browse the shops and discover standout fine dining spots.
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HIRE A BOAT, EXPLORE THE COAST
The highlight of our trip — and easily the best way to explore Corfu’s northeast coast — was hiring a boat for the day. With no licence needed, it’s a simple, joyful way to hop between hidden coves, swim in turquoise bays and moor up at seaside tavernas for lunch. The coastline is dotted with loads of places to stop, from the peaceful waters around Kerasia to the picture-perfect harbour at Agios Stefanos. In many of the places we dined, as you pull slowly into the bay a helpful member of staff jogs out and helps you moor up the boot!



We booked through Nissaki Boat Rental, who have reasonably priced and well conditioned boats of varying sizes. Igera Seaside is in the same beautiful bay and a perfect spot for sundowners when you arrive back at the end of the day.


CORFU TOWN
Corfu Town is lovely place to spend some time in, with a combination of seaside views, winding streets to browse and plenty of places to drink and dine. Here’s our ½ day trip to make the most of your time there.
Start at the Liston, a grand colonnaded arcade (below left) lining the edge of Spianada Square (below middle). There’s a slightly Parisian feel here — think neoclassical arches, wrought-iron balconies and waiters in crisp white shirts. Settle in at one of the pavement cafés and watch the locals drift by on their afternoon strolls. Loretto Gelato is just round the corner and a go-to for creamy, all-natural scoops.



Now, time to loose yourself wandering the bougainvillea framed backstreets. Head in the direction of the Old Town Hall, a handsome Venetian-era building with arched windows, carved stone balconies and a pale pink façade. Once the city’s noble Loggia (a private club and meeting place for the island’s aristocracy), it later served as a theatre. The Town Hall is next to the pretty Dimarchiou Square, a lovely spot for photos.


Head north along Michael Theotoki Street, with cobblestones, tiny bakeries and sandal shops. Meander to Saint Spyridon Church, whose red-domed bell tower is a local landmark (below right). Inside, it’s hushed and golden, with flickering candles a crypt holds the silver sarcophagus of the island’s patron saint who gave his name to the church.



Pass the grand façade of the Palace of St Michael and St George, now home to the Museum of Asian Art. The grand neoclassical architecture has imposing columns, arcades and formal gardens. The palace was originally built in the early 19th century as the residence of the British Lord High Commissioner. It later became the headquarters of the Order of St Michael and St George, a British order of chivalry established to honour distinguished service in the Mediterranean region.


A few minutes’ walk takes you to the waterside promenade, with uninterrupted views across the bay. Make your way to Faliraki Café for sundowners. Tucked below the fortress and right by the water, it’s got a laid-back charm. By now you will have worked up an appetite and are ready for a lovely dinner! (See Dine section)
If you have time, a climb up to the Old Fortress rewards you with sweeping views over the tiled rooftops, the port and the glittering Ionian Sea.


Stay
KENTROMA HOUSE
We stayed at Kentroma House, one of the standout homes in the Hideaways Club we are members of. It was one of the most spectacular spots we’ve ever stayed in. Set high on a hillside above the northeast coast of Corfu, the house offers jaw-dropping views across the Ionian Sea. It’s peaceful, private, and perfectly placed — a short drive from charming little bays and waterside tavernas, yet completely tucked away from the crowds.

The mountains of Albania rise on the horizon and a steady stream of boats pass below; there is always something to sit and watch. And the scene constantly shifts with the light — from soft morning haze to golden evening glow. The infinity pool feels like it’s suspended above the sea.


Every room, from the open-plan living space to the airy bedrooms, opens out onto that incredible view. The large stone terrace on the ground level is perfect for slow breakfasts or dinners that run long into the night.



Upstairs there is a wrap-around terrace with even more stunning views! This was a favourite spot for sundowners and also where we did early morning yoga, before it got too hot.


Inside, the design of the house is clean, contemporary and understated. White walls, natural wood and sea-blue linen tones create a calming feel throughout. There are four good sized bedrooms, with two of them en suite.



Dine (from north to south):
There is a wide range of places to dine on the north east coast of Corfu, from traditional tavernas to fine dining destination restaurants. As mentioned earlier, hopping on and off a boat you hire is a key part of a Corfu trip. We’ve marked below with a little boat the places we visited in this way.
EUCALYPTUS TAVERNA (Agios Stefanos)
Eucalyptus Taverna was one of our favourite places and we dined here twice, once for a leisurely lunch and again for a candlelit dinner. Both times were equally lovely. The taverna is tucked into the curve of Agios Stefanos bay, with wooden tables shaded by tall eucalyptus trees. It’s set right at the water’s edge. You’re so close you can hear the gentle lapping of the sea as you eat! The setting is effortlessly beautiful: sailboats bobbing in the bay, terracotta roofs across the water and cypress-covered hills rising behind. In the evening, candles flicker on tables, fairy lights twinkle in the trees and the sound of quiet conversation carries across the bay.
The food is simple but perfectly executed: grilled vegetables, a crisp Greek salad and a beautifully cooked sea bream The staff are friendly and quietly attentive, helping make it one of the most charming tavernas we’ve been to in Corfu.



GALINI TAVERNA (Agios Stefanos)
Galini Taverna is a family-run taverna in the same charming bay of Agios Stefanos. The feel here is more relaxed with white wooden tables and rustic floor tiles. We liked the setting a bit less than Eucalyptus, as Galini sitting just above the harbour, set slightly back from the water under a large covered terrace. The food is simple, tasty Greek fare with fresh fish the main attraction.

THE WHITE HOUSE (Kalami Bay)
The White House was the most atmospheric setting of our trip. Once the home of author Lawrence Durrell, the building is now a refined seafront restaurant with a long, whitewashed terrace set right above the rocks. You dine to the sound of waves, with the lights of Kalami Bay flickering across the water.
The menu is Greek at its core but elevated with creativity and precision. Mains lean towards the sea, with dishes plated elegantly and with care. Even the bread basket is house-made and served with a trio of dips that show attention to detail. Service is polished but warm.
- Garden terrace was our preferred spot, slightly set back but still open-air, with panoramic views over the bay and a more elevated perspective. Has a quieter, more intimate feel ideal for small groups or couples
- Seafront terrace is a whitewashed platform built directly above the rocks, with uninterrupted views across the sea.
- Balcony is a covered terrace with a homely feel, including framed photographs of the Durrell family history



TAVERNA AGNI (Agni Bay)
Set right on the gentle curve of Agni Bay, Taverna Agni has become a local institution and is a firm favourite of friends who regularly go to Corfu. Tables spill out along a wooden deck at the water’s edge, with uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea and the pine-draped Albanian coast just beyond. The decor is classic and unpretentious — whitewashed walls, blue wooden chairs, linen parasols — evoking a timeless Greek island feel. Freshness is the guiding principle in the kitchen: grilled sea bream, calamari and prawns arrive simply dressed with lemon and olive oil. The super friendly staff treat you like family. We had both a long lunch and a lovely dinner. Closed on Wednesdays at time of writing.



TOULA’s (Agni Bay)
Toula’s sits right next door to Agni Taverna. It has a more discreet, refined feel with a grown-up elegance. The food is more creative yet still rooted in the island: lobster orzo, sea bass ceviche with citrus zest. Service is warm and friendly. Reserve well in advance, especially in high season.


TAVERNA GLYFA (Glyfa Bay)
Taverna Glyfa offers a slightly more elevated experience, perched above the sea with panoramic views across the bay. The atmosphere is breezy and sophisticated — exposed stone, soft grey and sand-toned linens, wooden beams and subtle nautical touches. The seafood here is excellent, with daily specials like lobster pasta or sea bass carpaccio. Dishes are plated with finesse and there’s an extensive Greek wine list to match. A nice touch is the sunbeds on the beach, where we spent a lovely hour sunbathing after (another!) rosé-lubricated lunch.



PIEDRA DEL MAR (Barbati)
Chic and cosmopolitan, Piedra del Mar blends island cool with beach club attitude. The decor is stylishly curated: natural wood, matte black finishes, sculptural lighting and lush palms — a setting that wouldn’t look out of place in Ibiza or Mykonos. The terrace offers elevated sea views. On the menu are Mediterranean dishes with global twists including salads (Greek salad, Caesar salad), perfect pizzas and burgers. The place is packed at the weekend with local families, but the benefit is enjoying the sounds of a DJ. There is also a little boutique selling beachwear and jewellery if you want a cool break from the heat.



ETRUSCO (Kato Korakiana)
Tucked away in a quiet residential corner, Etrusco is one of Greece’s most celebrated restaurants, having won a Michelin star. You arrive down an unassuming side street and then climb the stairs to a pretty walled garden. Tables are laid out beneath a broad-canopied tree, with twinkling lights in the branches casting a gentle glow over the white tablecloths and pale stone floor. It’s elegant without being stiff, feeling both refined and relaxed.
The food here is a love letter to Corfu, but told through a lens of modern fine dining. Chef Ettore Botrini draws on his own Greek-Italian heritage and years of experience to create a tasting menu that’s imaginative but deeply rooted in local tradition. Dishes celebrate seasonal ingredients — herbs from the garden, fish from the Ionian, vegetables and dairy from small-scale producers — reimagined with playful presentation and precise technique.
THE VENETIAN WELL (Corfu Old Town)
Tucked into a romantic pink-hued square behind a 16th-century church, The Venetian Well feels like something out of a movie! Tables are arranged around the namesake stone well, and the atmosphere is magical: candlelight, ivy-covered walls, and a soft murmur of conversation. Chef Yiannis Vlachos, along with the rising talent Spyros Agious, crafts inventive dishes grounded in Corfiot tradition. We loved it so much we went back a second time!


SALTO WINE BAR (Corfu Town)
We had Salto Wine Bar booked as our second place to dine on our most recent trip to Corfu, but didn’t make it as we returned to the Venitian Well. So, one to try next time, especially for a visit in the cooler months, as it’s more of an indoor destination.
It’s more of a low-key, less formal place, whilst still being sophisticated, with a moody and minimal interior: slate grey walls and dark wood furniture. The menu looks compact but inventive, with seasonal small plates designed for sharing. The wine list is, you’d expect for a wine bar, a standout feature. It showcases lesser-known Greek producers and natural wines.
Morning coffee
CRYSTAL SEASIDE (Near Agni)
Just around the headland from Agni Bay, Crystal Beach is a gorgeous little find — a secluded cove reached by a short walk through the woods. The path starts just above Agni and winds gently along the coast, shaded by pine trees and with glimpses of the sea below (below left). After about 15 minutes, you reach the beach: small, peaceful and with perfectly clear water that lives up to the name. There’s a line of simple sunbeds for hire (just €20 for two beds!) and a laid-back café where we grabbed early morning coffees. We had lunch there once too (a club sandwich and salad) – decent enough, but it’s the setting that makes this place special.



TAVERNA KOULOURA (Kouloura)
Set in the tiny harbour of Kouloura, Taverna Kouloura is one of the most picturesque spots we visited. As you arrive by boat, the first thing you notice is the striking white villa perched just above the water (below left). Wooden chairs and checkered tablecloths line a stone terrace with views of gently bobbing fishing boats. The decor is deliberately no-frills — faded shutters, pebbled floors and a scattering of potted plants. This is one of the places we came to for morning coffee only, as the service and food wasn’t quite up to the levels of the many other places recommended to us.



TAVERNA KERRASIA (Kerrasia)
Taverna Kerasia sits at the far end of one of the most peaceful beaches on Corfu’s northeast coast. It’s a more of simple, cheap and cheerful, down-to-earth place so we used it as a morning coffee spot, rather than for lunch or dinner. It has a long, shaded terrace just steps from the pebbled shore with lovely views. Service is warm and friendly, including one of the most helpful boat captains to help beginner sailors like us moor up!

Why a trip to Corfu?
Corfu hits the sweet spot between relaxed and refined. Its northeast coast, in particular, has beautiful bays, lovely beaches and stunning clifftop views that reminded us of the Amalfi coast. It has a range of dining options, from old-school tavernas to fine dining destinations. The game changer for us on our first trip to the island was the brilliant boat trips you can take, with the freedom to explore at your own pace. We loved our trip and will be sure to go back soon!