
Overview of our trip
Croatia offers a mix of coastal beauty and rich cultural experiences. For our trip, we explored the serene island of Brac, followed by a visit to the historic cities of Split and Dubrovnik, with their charming old towns and stunning seaside views. We ended our journey with a brief stay in Montenegro to check out the One & Only Resort we’d read a lot about. We chose to travel at the end of August, when the summer crowds were beginning to thin and the sun was still warm.
Day 1: Fly London to Split, private boat transfer to Brac, stay Villa Livka (Hideaways Club) (6 nights)
Day 7: Boat transfer back to Split, stay Briig Boutique Hotel (2 nights)
Day 9: Drive to Dubrovnik, stay Hotel Bellevue (2 nights)
Day 5: Drive into Montenegro, stay One & Only (3 nights)
Day 8: Fly back Dubrovnik to London

Brac
Brac is an island known for its beautiful beaches, charming harbours and relaxed Mediterranean vibe. A favourite among travellers seeking a mix of serene landscapes and small-town Croatian charm, it is less crowded than its more famous neighbour, Hvar.

Stay
Villa Livka (Hideaways Club)
Villa Livka one of the houses in the Hideaways Club, of which we are members. It is a modern villa just a short walk outside Sutivan, a picturesque seaside town with a lively little port. The villa’s design has a sleek, South Beach Miami feel, with minimalist interiors. The arrival by private boat transfer, was a spectacular start to our stay, pulling up to a jetty in front of the villa felt very James Bond!


The pool is a showstopper, directly overlooking the Adriatic Sea, with just a few steps leading down to a small, secluded beach. It was a lovely spot for lounging in the day and dining by night, watching the sun set.


Do
Local Beach
Just steps from Villa Livka is a small, simple beach with crystal-clear waters. While it may not have the frills of larger beaches, it was a perfect spot for morning swims with a little kiosk selling ice creams and drinks.


Zlatni Rat
No trip to Brac would be complete without visiting Zlatni Rat, a stunning strip of land jutting out into the sea. It is the island’s most famous beach, often featured in brochures and travel posters. While beautiful, it didn’t quite live up to the Maldive-like image we had, but the collection of beach bars, cafes and restaurants made it a lively change of scene versus the calm coast of Sutivan.
Boat trip
We had a fun day out with a skipper on a small boat, touring round the island and stopping off a nice place for lunch of fresh fish.


Dine
Hotel Lemongarden
Our first dinner was at Hotel Lemongarden, set right on the port of Sutivan. The cuisine is a mix of Mediterranean and Croatian flavours and though it didn’t quite hit the high-end gourmet level it aimed for, we still had a lovely evening.

Kaštil Gospodnetić
For a taste of tradition, we visited Kaštil Gospodnetić, a rustic agriturismo located in the hills of Brac, dining on a terrace with scenic views. Set in old farm buildings, this restaurant focuses on cooking over an open fire. We enjoyed the traditional dish Peka, a slow-cooked mix of veal, lamb and chicken with potatoes and vegetables, baked under an iron bell.


Žiža
Another local favourite was Žiža, offering simple, authentic food and warm hospitality and a charming terrace with views of the island. This family-run spot has no website, so you need to call ahead to book (+385915171288).

Split
Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, offers a mix of vibrant urban life, history and gorgeous seaside views. This historic walled town has a blend of ancient history and modern charm. Beautiful old buildings have been carefully preserved, including the Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Quaint boutiques and artisanal shops tempt you to browse, while cafés spill out onto the stone streets.

Stay
Briig Boutique Hotel
We picked the Briig Boutique Hotel as we liked the look of the striking white cube exterior and the cool, contemporary interiors. It did almost feel like staying in your own modern art gallery, with designer furniture, minimalist design and modern art on show. It’s a good choice if, like us, you like modern luxury but not for those in search of a traditional stay!


The hotel is well located, in front of a beach and short walk to the old town. Our room had a picture window with views out over the sea and a small sun terrace on the roof.

Dine
Zoi
Zoi is a fine dining venue literally built into the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace. The restaurant draws inspiration from the Mediterranean region blending Croatian, Greek, Italian and French influences. The decor is sleek and modern, with a terrace offering great views of Split’s waterfront promenade. Be sure to book ahead, as a table at Zoi is a hot ticket!
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in the main square which had turned into an improvised dance floor, with couples of all ages joining in worth looking out for!


Bokeria
Bokeria is a lively wine bar serving Mediterranean-style tapas in a relaxed atmosphere and was a good contrast to Zoi. The visually striking wall of Aperol bottles adds a splash of bright orange that sets the tone for a casual, fun evening.


Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik, known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved medieval cities in the world. Famous for its walled old town, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that has enchanted visitors for centuries. The city offers both a rich history and a dramatic coastal setting.

Stay
Hotel Bellevue
Hotel Bellevue is a contemporary hotel built into the cliffside, offering breathtaking views of the Adriatic. With modern interiors that seamlessly blend with the natural rock formations, the hotel’s design is striking and luxurious. One of the highlights was the hotel’s private rocky beach, perfect for a quiet swim or sunbathing away from the crowds. It is a little way out of town, but we felt the walk was worth it for the contemporary design and cliffside setting.


Do
Walking the Walls
The best way to experience Dubrovnik is by walking its historic city walls, which offer panoramic views of the sea and the terracotta rooftops below. We started our walk early in the morning, allowing us to have the walls almost entirely to ourselves: a peaceful, magical experience. There is a café on the wall where you can stop off for a coffee.



If want to pop back to the walls in the early evening for a sundowner, Buža is a bar built into the rocks outside of the city walls with stunning sea views. It’s a bit tricky to find: look for the little entrance and white gate (below right) to access the steps down to the bar.


Dine
Vapor (Hotel Bellevue)
The terrace of the Bellvue hotel’s signature restaurant, Vapor, had sweeping views of the sea. The Mediterranean menu focuses on fresh, local ingredients, expertly prepared and paired with fine Croatian wines.
Above 5 Rooftop
Above 5 Rooftop has a unique with stunning views over Dubrovnik’s old town, with a small number tables creating an intimate dining experience. The fine dining restaurant serves a seasonal tasting menu. It one of the most exclusive dining experiences in the city, so be sure to book ahead to secure a table.
The white cobbled streets of the old town light up a night, a picturesque setting for a pre or post-dinner stroll.


Portonovi, Montenegro
Our final stop was Portonovi, Montenegro’s newest luxury resort destination, located on the shores of the Bay of Kotor. The centrepiece of the resort is its state-of-the-art marina, catering to super-yachts. The entire development has a clean, contemporary feel, with wide promenades, luxury boutiques and polished restaurants. However, it did lack a bit of the vibrancy we’d expect from a marina destination.
Stay
One & Only Montenegro
We ended our trip on a high by staying at the One & Only Portonovi, a luxurious, modern resort that combines sleek design with a breathtaking natural setting right on the bay. While the resort exuded luxury in every detail, the grand scale did make it feel a little impersonal and lacking in soul, like Portonovi in general.
As with all One & Only resorts, the price tag is not cheap. But the suites at One & Only Portonovi do deliver a bang for your buck, with expansive space, high ceilings and luxurious finishings. Our suite also had a a terrace with a panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea.

The private beach is a secluded stretch of soft lined with plush sun loungers and private cabanas. We also enjoyed trying out the resort’s multiple pools, especially the impressive infinity pool.


The resort’s spa and wellness centre is a partnership with the renowned wellness brand Chenot and offers wide range of treatments. Facilities also include a gym, tennis courts and water sports like sailing, kayaking and paddleboarding.
Do
Private boat trip to Bay of Kotor
A highlight of our stay was being whisked away in one of the resort’s private launches for a tour of the Bay of Kotor. We cruised through the dramatic fjord-like landscapes, with towering mountains rising on either side. We sopped off to visit the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks (below right), a picturesque, centuries-old church situated on a tiny island.



Dine
Sabia (One & Only Montenegro)
Sabia is the signature Mediterranean restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Giorgio Locatelli, offering a menu centred around fresh seafood and local ingredients that highlight the flavours of the Adriatic. Set in an elegant, open-air space with views of the bay, Sabia has a sophisticated yet laid-back atmosphere.

Tapasake (One & Only Montenegro)
We were already familiar with Tapasake from a previous stay at a One & Only resort, so we knew to expect top-notch cuisine. This Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant is set in a striking space with sleek, minimalist decor. The outdoor bar had some cool hanging out areas by the pool, with my favourite spot the one swinging over the pool! (below right).


Why Croatia?
From the crystal-clear waters of Brac to the lively urban charm of Split and the breathtaking beauty of Dubrovnik’s walled city, a trip to Croatia offers a diverse range of experiences. It’s a great mix of seaside relaxation, sight-seeing and culture.